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Coldworking - Glass Bowl
Blade

Can My Work Be Better Now That I Have More Time?

Gail Stouffer

Coldworking Options How To Bring A Professional Finish To Your Work During this insecure time, we figured we would talk about something that made us feel secure as artists; workmanship and creativity. We’re really motivated to make stuff right now, but here at Kiln Frog we are all about the finish of our projects. A good finish will take your piece of glass, pottery or blade from “Oh yeah, that’s nice” to “Wow, that’s freaking amazing!”    Just like a lot of you, we’ve had some of extra time on our hands to get some long overdue projects finished.  This past weekend Paul finished the lip of a gorgeous bowl on his new flat lap grinder.  It was a great bowl, but it just needed that professional finish to take it over the top.    Here is the before and after.  That ugly, lumpy edge finally is gone!     This project got us thinking.  Whether it’s finishing the lip of a glass bowl, smoothing out the bottom of a thrown pot, or putting a razor-sharp edge with a mirror shine on a blade, grinding and polishing is something we all do.  Coldworking is what really finishes off a piece, but we often don’t have the time necessary to give our work that last little bit of polish.    Well, now a lot of us do have that time.  Coldworking takes patience and practice, and it can’t be rushed, but the right tools really help to get the work done well.    We know that sometimes what you really want and what you can really afford are two different things, so we thought we’d give you an idea of some different options that are out there to get a super finish on your work.      If you want to do some coldworking, but just can’t spring for that 24” flat lap grinder right now, (it took Paul three years of saving everything he made at every art show he attended to finally get the cash together to buy his!) you can always get some silicon carbide in a few different grits, a sheet of 6mm or ¼ inch plate glass, and some water and you have your very own cold working station.     Here is a kit we put together that has all of the grits you need to get your coldworking station set up with this method.  This kit is a steal, and it really works great!     Loose Grit Grinding and Polishing Kit And here is a link to a great video that shows the process for setting up and using a simple grit based cold working station from the super helpful folks at Bullseye Glass.      Bullseye Coldworking Youtube Video If you have a little bit more to spend, you can get a versatile machine to do the work for you. Covington has two great models of wet belt sanders to get the job done.    The #466 Mounted Wet Belt Sander has 6 inches of workspace and a 1/3 hp motor.  It is perfect for working on smaller pieces such as items for jewelry. It doesn’t really have the power for bigger plates and bowls, but it handles small work under 6” really well. Covington Mounted Wet Belt Sander #466   If you have larger projects to work on, the #761 Deluxe Commercial Wet Belt Sander has a more powerful ½ hp motor.  This extra power and torque will handle larger jobs.  The 761 also has a 13-inch high back plate allowing you to work vertically, and it can be ordered in either 120v or 240v configuration.  This is a great machine and has a lot of power to handle just about anything. Covington Deluxe Wet Belt Sander #761 For bigger projects, Covington Engineering has Flat Lap Grinders starting at 12 inches of work surface and on up to 24 inches.  The 12-inch model is a great way to get introduced to the world of beveling and polishing.  It can be configured with a center water feed and a variable speed motor.   Gail recommends the Variable speed model, which is good for polishing the lips of bowls. Even through it comes at a higher cost, it’s worth the extra money. It allows you to work alone safely. Although you can polish with a single speed model, it is definitely more challenging to hold on to your project as you change the abrasive discs and they have finer grit, things get a little more slippery! This is when you need a studio buddy to help keep you safe and turn the machine on and off. You don’t want your piece flying across the room. Remember, safety first!   Covington 12" Flat Lap Grinder I Can't Wait Much Longer!     We have been getting a lot of calls in the last few weeks from people who are stuck at home, just like we are, and can’t get to their work studio, community center, or wherever it is where they normally create their art. A lot of them are deciding to finally get a kiln or other piece of equipment to use at their home.  The biggest dilemma is that it usually takes 4 to 6 weeks to get something built even during normal times and let’s face it, these just aren’t normal times!  Many people don’t realize that we have a great selection of kilns that are in our Ready-to-Ship Program that usually go out in 5-to-7 business days.  They are already built and at the factory waiting to go to a new home.  If you are at that point where you want to get something to use at the house, you can check them out here.  There is a nice variety of kilns here from small to large; for glass, pottery and heat treating.    Ready To Ship So, whether it’s a Flat Lap Grinder, a Wet Belt Sander, or just some silicon carbide grit and a sheet of plate glass that you need to get that professional edge to your work, or a kiln to call your very own we’ve got you covered.     These times are difficult for everyone, and if you are like us, you get a lot of pleasure and maybe even a bit of calm from creating something with your own hands.  We thought it would be fun to help you show that off a little.  Send us a jpeg of something you have created with one of our products and we will post it up on our Facebook or Instagram.  Send your pic to our email address, kilnfrog@gmail.com Attn: Paul and we will get your creation a little extra love! We want to see you blades, your glass, you gorgeous clay creations! And if you’re one of our University, Lab or Industrial Shop customers, share your workplace love too! We’d love to see what you’re up to also! There’s a lot of creative energy going on out there in industry too!   As always, we are here for you.  Keep creating and keep yourselves and your loved ones safe.   **A note about our manufacturers: Most of our manufacturers are considered essential manufacturers, allowing them to remain open, still building and shipping. They are running smaller production crews, and are doing everything possible to ensure the safety and health of their employees. It is our goal to continue to support their businesses by continuing to market their products. They stay in business with our support, and your support. Some of our manufacturers have been forced to temporarily close. Please see our website for their status.**      

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Create Hues with Sparkle and Depth
Bullseye Glass

Create Hues with Sparkle and Depth

Quick Tip: Sparkle, Sparkle   Did you ever wonder why Bullseye doesn’t make an Aventurine version of other colors, like red, for example? We would if we could! The chemistry of those sparkles (a.k.a., flake) is deeply tied to green glass. In the kiln, however, you can layer to create new hues. When we were tipped off to this combination by Meryl Raiffe at The Glass Underground, we just had to try it and share the results!

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Bullseye Glass Index of Frequently Asked Questions
Bullseye Glass

Bullseye Glass Index of Frequently Asked Questions

Do you have exploring questions about Bullseye Glass and how to use it?  Their Index of Frequently Asked Questions can be a helpful guide! It contains anything and everything you ever wanted to know about Bullseye Glass. So, get comfortable... this is a TON of great information!  GENERAL Is Bullseye glass COE 90? Can I use a ceramic kiln for glass? How can I learn to cut glass?  Is Bullseye glass compatible in all conditions? Is Bullseye glass food safe? What are "striking" glass colors? What should I know about studio safety? What's the specific gravity of Bullseye? How do I know which clear Bullseye glass to use? Is there bubble-free glass? Why should I choose Bullseye glass over other glasses? New to using Bullseye Glass? COLDWORKING What is coldworking? Besides sandblasting, how can I remove devit? Can I sandblast glass to remove devit? How do I coldwork my kilncast piece? How do I get rid of sharp edges on my project? KILNFORMING What is kilnforming? How and why should I clean glass before firing it? How do I prevent glass from sticking to kiln shelves? How do I restrain glass flow? What is annealing? Why is it necessary? What is devitrification or devit? What is firepolishing? What is fusing? What is slumping? What is tack-fusing? What schedule should I use for annealing? Why should I fuse and slump glass in separate firings?   Want to see the full list? Check it out here...  Index of Frequently Asked Questions!

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Color Line Dot Bowls - Bullseye Glass
Bullseye Glass

Sweet Dotted Bowls

Bullseye Glass Quick Tip: In this Quick Tip, learn how to make these sweet dotted bowls with Color Line Paints and the simplest of tools! To get started, layer two 4.75 ̋ circles of colorful 3mm sheet combinations and fire to a full fuse. For a slightly thinner, lighter bowl, swap the top 3mm layer for thin (-0050). The thinner top layer will contract just enough to form a narrow border of the base color along the bowl’s rim. Once your blanks are ready, let the fun begin! Using pins, toothpicks, and Color Line’s affixable tips, add dots and flourishes of Color Line Paint in organic patterns. Explore the diversity of colors and the bold-to-whimsical mark-making range that these ready-to-use, lead-free enamels make possible. Easily mixable, they’re also great for developing your own custom colors. Fuse the Color Line enamels to a gloss by firing the painted blanks, then slump in a Ball Surface mold (firing schedules below). Firing Color Line reds often requires a little extra attention.

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Little Wisp Bowls
Bullseye Glass

Little Wisp Bowls

Bullseye Glass Quick Tip: In this Quick Tip, you will learn to create your own streaky color palette! And, it's so easy! Start by layering Clear and White Streaky sheet glass over transparent tint glass styles. Then, slump in the Cone Bowl mold to upturn the edges and achieve luscious color at the rim. You might just find yourself making bowls for days! The Cone Bowl mold is a crowd pleaser and has always been a Bullseye Glass favorite!  Glass fusers have dubbed it the original “the ice cream dish mold” and who doesn't love ice cream! The steep drop of this mold into a narrow space means this is one slumping project that requires special attention to preparation, firing schedules and placement in the kiln. Check out this additional tip from Bullseye... Cone Bowl Molds for additional best practices. Also, if this is your first time using clear, white streaky sheet glass, keep in mind that it may become more translucent upon firing. Remember to remove any needle pointed edges with a diamond pad prior to slumping to ensure you get a smooth, clean edge. Finally, for handy for minor adjustments of the flat, fused blank in the mold, as well as removing the slumped dish from the mold... just use this handy Small Suction Lifter.

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Bullseye Glass
Bullseye Glass

Put a Ring on it!

Bullseye Glass Quick Tip: In this Quick Tip, explore the possibilities of a palette of rings capped with Opaline! As an overlay, Opaline scatters light for a dramatic impact on base colors. Note the blue hue it adds to the dark-valued green and the subtle changes with lighter-valued greens. But when held up to the light, it's as if the Opaline layer disappears! One secret of ring cutting is that the inner pieces must be slightly smaller in diameter for the best fit! A central circle cut to the same dimension as the inner ring will not fit, in the same way a ring and circle cut from the same sheet won't fit back together. Larger, narrower rings are easier to cut because they're more flexible than smaller, wider rings. When trying to remove the rings, make a single score perpendicular to the inner circle and run it gently, then wiggle the ends of the ring up and down to ease it off of the central circle. This will leave a seam in the ring, but this usually fuses together with little visibility, particularly under a cap of Opaline.

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Bringing Home Your New Kiln
Brining home your new kiln

Bringing Home Your New Kiln

Many artists assume they need to rent a dedicated space to work on kiln-glass projects. But you can accomplish a lot in a home studio with just a kiln, a table or bench, and some basic tools. In this Bullseye Glass short 4-part video lesson, they set up a home studio around a Paragon Fiber Fuse-16, a compact top-loading kiln used in many home studios. Plus, they cover basics like tools, furniture, and other equipment; where to place your kiln; and how to prepare for your first firing. Additionally, safety in your new studio is always important!  Here are some things to consider: Good housekeeping and common sense go a long way toward ensuring safety in the kiln forming studio. Ventilate your studio well, keep dust to a minimum, and confine hazardous materials to a limited area.  Avoid eating and drinking in the studio. Toxins and dust are easily ingested when you handle food and kiln-working materials in the same space.  Wash your hands upon leaving the studio. If you can’t change clothes, wear a smock or apron while you work. To avoid tracking dust and toxins to other locations, consider dedicating a pair of shoes to studio use only.  Thoroughly read the manual and other information provided by the manufacturer.  Operate your kiln in a well-ventilated area. Full-fuse firings of glass on primed shelves will not release fumes, but firings that involve fibers, enamels, glazes, and other materials can.  Avoid burns by wearing protective clothing. Use heatresistant gloves whenever opening a hot kiln.  Always turn off the power before reaching into a hot kiln (for example, during glass combing or other manual forming).  Protect your eyes. Looking into a hot kiln for prolonged periods of time exposes your eyes to potentially damaging infrared light. Excessive exposure can cause cataracts. Wear safety glasses with protective ANSI shade 1.7 lenses. Didymium glasses used for flameworking DO NOT provide protection from infrared light. Want more on specific hazards, check out Bullseye Safety in the Kiln-Glass Studio!

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