FrogBlog
Don't be a gambler with your kiln..
I'm declaring November "National Kiln Problem Month!" Murphy's law says that whenever you need your kiln most, and are firing the most, that's just when it's going to have a problem. So.... we all know that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of I told you so. This is not directed to any one of our clients who've contacted us this month with an OMG moment! This is for all of us, who are just very busy and forget to take care of the basics. And yes... this has happened to me so, you're not alone. If you don’t already know, a relay is the part of the kiln that controls the power or current to the element, allowing the element to either receive current and get hot, or to interrupt the circuit thus not allowing the element to receive current and cool down. The mechanical relays, which come standard on all kilns, are what is responsible for the ubiquitous opening and closing clicking we hear while our kilns run. ALL MECHANICAL RELAYS in U.S. kilns are vitually the same... no matter the manufacturer. Mechanical relays have a life of up to “X” amount of clicks and then they fail. This failure can either be in the closed position (Yikes, my kiln temperature keeps rising and it won’t turn off… everything is ruined!”) or they can fail in the open position. (Yikes, my kiln won’t heat up at all!) If they fail, it is not the manufacturers fault, since they do not make the relays. They test them to make sure they work at the factory, but after that... it is your responsibility. We know that all failures stink and that is why we recommend changing your relays every 12-24 months. If you are a heavy kiln user, you should be smart and change your relays once a year. Think about it like an oil change or new tires... you wouldn't let you car drive on bald tires or your engine run on old oil. Pick a month and make it kiln maintenance month. Install new relays, paint the bottom with kiln wash, etc. and give your kiln a thorough inspection. Don't be the cautionary tale!! Finally, if this is something you don't want to hassle with... you can eliminate the problem by upgrading to mercury or solid state relays and almost never have to change a relay again. In our opinion, it's the best upgrade money can buy.
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Feeling Like I'm on Grey's Anatomy... Kiln Surgery... STAT!
There's a sinking feeling that I get in my gut when one of my kilns behaves oddly. It's akin to the car making weird noises as you are driving down the highway. Thoughts of dread begin to fill your mind and you start to concoct scenarios of doom. Mainly, "ON NO, I HAVE TO OPEN THE CONTROLLER BOX!" It's funny because I've owned a lot of kilns over the last 14 years and changed a lot of relays, transformers, thermocouples, etc., but still that feeling of dread comes over me as though it was my first time "opening the box." It's like a big mystery. What's in there? What's it going to look like? ...and the biggest question of all.... WILL I SCREW IT UP? You'd think that I'd approach this with confidence and bravado thinking, "I've done this a million times. I've got this!" But, sadly, NO! Anyway, if you feel the same way too, know you are not alone. The inside of the "box" is intimidating. Although it's pretty simple once you know what all of the wires are for and how the electricity needs to move, it's still a little daunting. So here's my story of the week regarding my kiln surgery. I have a 36" Profusion Fiber kiln. I love her, and her name is Jenny! (Yeah, I know I'm a weirdo.) I loaded some simple 2 layer plate tiles into the kiln for an easy full fuse and got a FTL error. The glass never got fired at all and the kiln only went to 600F. So why the FTL? (That's failure to cool, for those of you who don't know all the error codes.) Apparently, you get a FTL code after a FTH (failure to heat) code. Now that seems illogical, but that rant is for another blog. So my task was to figure out why the kiln wasn't heating. No heat = no fusing = no fun for me! There are only a few reasons why a kiln won't heat; dead or stuck relay(s), broken or fried element, not enough current/volts getting to the kiln, etc. The thermocouple was telling me the correct temps, so we could rule that out easily. I'm not as religious about changing relays as I should be on this kiln. I changed them all out exactly 3 years ago. So, it clearly was time! Luckily, I'm not a hypocrite! I did have a stash of relays that was reserved for this event, so I was ready when the time came. (I might be lazy, but I'm not a hypocrite!) So I set aside yesterday afternoon for this planned outpatient kiln surgery! I took out my drill with the 1/4" nut driver attachment, my phillips head bit, and my long nose pliers. I unplugged the kiln and set a small bowl next to my chair. The bowl is for all the screw, nuts, and parts that come off, and will need to go back onto the kiln. It just helps keep things in one place and makes sure things don't roll away and escape from you. (I learned this from experience of not doing the bowl thing and being on my hands and knee on the floor looking for a damn screw.) I pull up a comfy low chair and found a stool to rest the box on since It was still going to be attached to the kiln. NOW I AM READY FOR SURGERY! All I needed was the trippy Grey's Anatomy music and someone telling me, go for it! As you can tell from these pictures, there is A LOT going on in there. The kiln has 4 relays with 4 element connections, power jumps from one relay to the next, connections to the pilot lights, etc. There are 6 prongs on each of the 4 relays, and each prong has something attached to it. That's 24 connections to take off and reconnect correctly, and in the right order. That wouldn't be so bad except that this all has to be done in a tiny space. I'm not the largest lady in town, but I'm not small and delicate either. My hands are normal size, but in that box I felt like my hands were baseball mitts. Each relay is color coded to an element. So the red wires go to one relay, the whites, the blacks, and the blues, each to their own relay. That's really helpful so that you know you've got it all correct. Of course that escaped me the first time I did this, but you learn. Each relay is held in place by 2 bolts, each with their corresponding nut. That's a challenge, removing the relay from its spot, then disconnecting all of the crimped connections, then attaching all the connections correctly to the new relay, and then bolting the new relay back in place securely. That's what you do, just four times, in a small space, bent over, with reading glasses on, while you struggle to hold the long nosed pliers that are wiggling the tightly crime connectors on and off. See.... it's simple... a breeze.. ARE YOU KIDDING ME? The TRUTH is that none of this in mentally taxing. I didn't need special knowledge, JUST NERVE! I had to remember that this was just a giant toaster, and I am a resourceful girl! Yes, I started out intimidated, but that soon gave way to a wave of confidence and accomplishment. My last step was to take a picture of the inside of the box and send it to the folks that built the kiln to assure I hadn't missed anything. They got back to me quickly and pointed out one mistake, which was easily fixed in 15 seconds. The kiln companies are there to help, so utilize that help. NOW I AM READY TO GO! HERE'S WHAT I LEARED, THAT YOU CAN LEARN FROM TOO... Fear is the enemy, not the relays! Have the right tools and get them together in one place. Get a stash of relays so that you will be ready when the time comes. Schedule a quiet, uninterrupted "appointment" time with yourself to do this task. Go slowly and take a break if you need it. DO NOT wait until the kiln doesn't fire, or do this the night before a show. Ask for help from your kiln manufacturer. Reward yourself for job well done! Good luck! If I can do it, you can too! Your Kiln Gal, Gail Some important kiln parts: RelaysAdhesive Electric Kiln Parts
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My first big kiln! What should I be looking for?
I remember this like it was yesterday. I had been fusing for a while and I was ready to go to my first "big girl" 240 volt kiln. The truth is I really did not know what I was supposed to be looking for in a bigger kiln. I just knew I wanted more space and I had the money in my pocket ready to go. This was about 14 years ago, and I'm sure there were answers out there, but I didn't really know who to trust and what their motives might be. Here's my story... (without any bias to manufacturers). My first larger kiln was a 24"octagon with a 21" round shelf. I was so excited at the time that I didn't realize that a 21" round shelf meant that a only a 15" inch square would fit on the shelf. I knew that was not going to be enough shelf space for me so the problem was easily fixed a year later when I sold that kiln and purchased an oval. So, now I had an oval, which I loved by the way, but that one had a two piece shelf, making it harder to do larger pieces without the dreaded line. The full shelves were a $250 upgrade which seemed like a lot of money at the time. However, I really should have upgraded and not cheaped-out as it would have saved me alot of hassle. Lesson learned. About two years later, I then bought a new square one. This one had a 24" shelf and gave me a lot of utility. But again, I'd discovered there were issues I hadn't thought about. That kiln was very low to the ground and killed my back to load. Also, the lid was a bear to open and close from the front because again I didn't think I needed the lid lifter... so I'd have to stand on the side to open it. That added torque to the lid and a crack soon appeared. Again, I was being frugal and should have upgraded. After the lid was replaced, I sold that one too and continued my quest. By now you can see that the addiction was taking hold. My husband and my business partner may have been colluding behind my back to check me into the nearest 12-step kiln addiction program. But I didn't care. Within a few years I'd added a fiber kiln to the mix. My confession is that I've owned over 25 kilns in 15 years. It's given me a great deal of experience about what kilns work for what projects. It's also allowed me to have the experience to helping others determine what they need and what might not be a good fit. Let's face it, everyone's needs are different and dictated by the kind of art work they want to do. NO ONE KILN IS PERFECT FOR EVERY JOB, EVERY TIME, EVERY ARTIST! Next, I bought my first clamshell. I really liked that one but the shelf was only 20" square. Too small for my taste. More bad decisions, you'd think I would have learned!With all of that said... here's my checklist of what to think about when purchasing your first larger kiln. I wish someone would have shared this with me about 20 kilns ago. Think about what kind of work you might want to do in the future. Your choice might work for today's needs, but will it look for tomorrows needs? Think about your body. This might sound silly to you, but if you intend to use your new kiln a lot, you'd better be comfortable loading it, scraping the shelves, vacuuming it and lifting the lid. Whether the kiln loads from the top or the front changes how much bending and lid-lifting that involves. You will absolutely use the kiln LESS if you are not comfortable. Be smart, get the lid lifter, or the full shelf, or the clamshell, or the taller stand, even if it costs more. It will be worth it in long-term utility. Be honest with yourself. Will you change the relays every year or two without someone standing over you to do it? If not, then think about getting mercury relays, which never need to be changed. Yes, they're an upgrade, but in 14 years and over 25 kilns I've had a few relay failures. Two of my failure happened with full kiln loads and the relays stuck in the "on" position. It does happen and it's no one's fault. It's just like a blown out tire, it just happens. Think about how lazy or energetic you are. No one is judging you here! I can be lazy and I'll admit it. How much do you love to scrape shelves and vacuum? I don't love it, so I avoid it. The way to fix this problem and make it less irritating is to actually purchase extra shelves with your kiln. It's actually much less expensive and far healthier to use kiln wash than it is to use fiber paper. The more shelves you can rotate, the less scraping and coating it will feel like you are doing. Finally, really think about getting what you want. I cheaped-out on several upgrade items that would have made me happier with my kiln long term. Even if it hurts a little, get what you need so that you don't have regrets. Of course there's a disclaimer! I am part of the kiln establishment now, selling kilns to other artists. But here's my truth, I represent four different kiln companies and doing this allows me to better represent my artist clients and get them the kilns they need, configured the way they need them. I'm not sure if I should be proud or ashamed of the number of kilns I have owned from each of the companies I represent. I'm joking a little saying that, but owning kilns from each manufacturer has made me more than just familiar with how those kilns work, it's made me educated about how each company builds their kilns, and where each company shines. So here's the recap of what to consider: Think long-term about your artwork needs! Think long-term about your physical needs and how they might change! Think long-term about your nature and how you want to spend time! Think long-term about your budget and what you'll really need to make you happy on #1-2-3! I love teaching my students and talking to artists about their needs everyday! I love helping fellow artists get what they need to do their best work! Thanks for letting me do what I love! Your kiln gal, Gail Explore some of our best-selling large or x-large kilns: Olympic Kiln - MAS1823HE Paragon Kiln - CS-19S Jen-Ken Kiln - AFG JK2 27-11
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The Power of A Small Multi-Use Kiln
I love my big, very capable kilns, but so many times they just are not the right solution for my smaller projects. Having a smaller multi-use kiln for making jewelry, firing metal clays, making drawer pulls or glass bracelets, small ceramic projects, pulling vitrigraph stringer, bead annealing, and enameling is just a must in my studio. I'd be lost without my little wonder of a kiln! Here are some kilns that I really like as they do A LOT for the money... It's definitely hard to choose which one is best. It really just depends on what smaller projects you like to do and how much flexibility you need. The Evenheat Copper Kiln I love this kiln because of its front loading capability. It makes for easy access and loading. It allows you to do all of the above except vitrigraph and bead annealing. The really nice thing is that this kiln pulls less watts then most other kilns, while still making the temps we need. If you have power challenges in your studio, this kiln plugs into any household 120V receptacle, so you'll have an easy time getting the "juice" you need. The Copper excels at ease of use. It is built entirely of firebrick to offer the metal clay artist the opportunity to explore materials in the higher temperature ranges. Many clays require temperatures up to 2200F and the Copper has the capability to get you there. The Copper also finds use in china and porcelain painting, ceramics, and glass. The Copper is stock equipped with our easy to use Set-Pro control with preset metal clays programs as well as allowing for custom programming. The Copper sits comfortably on table tops and includes a stand. The Olympic HB86E This kiln is a rocket, because it heats very quickly! The reason this kiln is special is because it's super powered, going really fast up to temp and having the ability to hold that temp for long periods. That is especially important when pulling vitrigraph stringer. This nifty little kiln is truly multipurpose! We use it to fuse, anneal beads, fire Metal Clay, as a vitrograph, and to make bracelets. You can even fire small ceramics. The top and bottom are removable for the ultimate in versatility. This little wonder does it all! It is important to note, that when the bead collar or blank collar are added, the maximum temperature on the HB86E reduces to 2000°F. If you are a fan of Vitrigraphs and want to have your own set up, but don't want to deal with ladders or a permanent shelf, Here's a very cool solution that goes perfectly with an Olympic Kiln HB86E!! Olympic Vitrigraph Stand The Paragon Caldera Digital This is one of Paragon's best sellers because it literally can do anything! It's used in a lot of studios as a dedicated vitrigraph kiln because it fires fast and stays there! You can order extra collars for bead annealing, enameling, or just depth! You can also order extra bottoms too! This kiln is a sold workshorse that has a great reputation. You can make jewelry from the amazing silver, bronze, and copper clay, fire ceramics, porcelain, or stoneware jewelry. When you are ready to try something new, fire china, decals, try enameling, and glass in Paragon’s digital Caldera kiln. Glass compatibility and glaze color tests are fast and easy. The Caldera fires rapidly to 2350°F/1287°C. What will you do with your multi-use small kiln? Your Kiln Gal, Gail
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PART TWO: 12-Key Controller Tips & Tricks
Happy Firing!! Now, a post for all you 12-button controller owners. Here are a few tricks that are good to know to help you be in better control of your firings! These tricks should apply to all of the following controllers! Changing a Target Temperature During a Firing - If the kiln is firing and you need to modify the current ramp target temperature (or hold time), Press the #4 USER PROG key. The controller will display the current target temperature and setting. Use the numeric keypad to change the temperature value and press ENTER. The controller will next display the current ramp hold time and setting. This too can be modified if necessary. Press ENTER again to exit the editing mode. Adding Time to a Hold - If the kiln is firing and you need to add time to the current ramp hold time, press the #2 ADD TIME key. Five (5) minutes will be added to the hold time each time the key is pressed. If the firing is in the first ramp, you can only edit the first ramp hold time. To edit the second ramp hold time, wait until the firing has progressed into the second ramp. Skip Step - To end a hold before the time has expired, use the Skip Step function to advance to the next ramp. Press the #9 SKIP key to view the next ramp and press ENTER. Threshold Alarm - To sound an audible alarm when the controller reaches a temperature, press the #7 ALARM key. ALAR shows in the display alternating with the alarm temperature. You can use the numerical keypad to enter a new alarm temperature or press Enter to keep the existing value. Setting the value to zero disables the alarm feature. When the kiln reaches the alarm temperature, the display will indicate ALAR and the buzzer will sound. Silence the alarm by pressing any key except STOP. Pressing STOP ends the firing. You can program the alarm before you start the firing or during the firing. Hopefully, these few tips will help your work be the best it can be! If you are interested in learning more about the different controller options that are available check out our controller option videos here! Your Kiln Gal, Gail
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PREPARE YOUR LOVED ONE (YOUR KILN) FROM STORM RELATED DAMAGE!
Wanted to share this great tip from our friends @ Jen-Ken Kilns: It's that time of year again, it's storm season in various parts of the country. During this time, we start getting "those" calls... "My kiln was fine and now it wont come on!" "I was firing, and all of the sudden I smelled something electrical burning!" "My display just flickers and beeps!" These are just a few of the typical issues. Over the years, we've seen the pattern and we've found the one common thread. It's storm season. We take so many calls like this a year, and every time we trace the symptoms back to one thing: LIGHTNING! When lightning strikes nearby, it sends a very HIGH VOLTAGE SURGE throughout the entire electrical system in your house. Unfortunately, you just can't plug your kiln into a surge protector to prevent the surge from zapping your kiln. The circuit board is the most expensive part on your entire kiln, and a good power surge will knock it out faster than anything else! It can also cause other problems, like burning out relays, and damaging your transformer. We know you love your kiln, and we want you to protect your baby! SO WHAT CAN YOU DO... If you have a digital kiln, PLEASE UNPLUG IT when it's not in use. Just like your computer or other expensive electronics, your kiln needs protection especially during storm season. Also, never fire a kiln when lightning is nearby. If your kiln is firing and a storm comes up, end your program as soon as you can and unplug the kiln. Don't just hope for the best! Don't let your kiln be the victim of mother nature! If need us, as always we're here to help. All the Best and Happy Firing, Jenn The Jen-Ken Tech Girl Explore some of our favorite Jen Ken kilns: Jen-Ken - AF3P Vitri Barrel Vitrigraph Jen-Ken - AFG ProFusion Fiber 26 Jen-Ken - AF3P 15/6
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PART ONE: 3-Key Controller Tricks
Everyday prospective buyers ask me which type of controller is better; the 3-key or the 12-key. What I tell them is "There is no better... it reallly comes down to what you have or can afford." A 3-key controller can do almost everything a 12-key can do, but it just takes longer to get the programming done. And, it doesn't matter if it's a Paragon, Olympic, Evenheat or Jen-Ken kiln... all 3-key controllers work the same way. If your impatient or easily distracted, like me, a 12-key might be the right choice for you. Either way the digital controller, either 3-key or 12-key can be your friend if your know these simple tricks. So, this week I'll share 3-key controller tricks you might not know about. 3-Key Controllers - COOL OPTIONS THAT ARE HIDDEN! During an active firing, the INCREASE button will activate an options menu and scroll through the available options with each button press. These options allow you to make adjustments to the firing program without stopping the firing. The available options follow... SKIP STEP - During an active heating, cooling or hold time, it is possible to skip ahead to the next program step. Press the INCREASE button to display the skip step prompt SStP. Then press the PROGRAM button to display the current ramp or hold segment. Press the PROGRAM button again to initiate the skip and the controller display returns to the normal firing mode. If the DECREASE button is pressed, the skip step function is canceled and the controller display returns to the normal firing mode.The skip function can be used to end a hold time early or to skip from any heating/cooling step to the next heating/cooling step. The skip function does nothing during the final program step. To end a final program step, simply press STOP. ADD MORE HOLD TIME - During an active heating, cooling or hold time, it is possible to add more hold time to the current program step. Press the INCREASE button until the hold time prompt HLdt is displayed. Then Press the PROGRAM button to display the current hold time. Press the INCREASE button to add five (5) minute increments to the original hold time. Then press the PROGRAM button to return to the normal firing mode. If the DECREASE button is pressed while the HLDT prompt is displayed, the controller display returns to the normal firing mode. CHANGE HEATING OR COOLING TEMPS - During an active heating, cooling or hold time, it is possible to change the heating or cooling temperature of the current program step. Press the INCREASE button until the change temperature prompt CHGT is displayed. Then press the PROGRAM button to display the current temperature setting. Adjust the temperature setting with the INCREASE or DECREASE buttons. Then press the PROGRAM button to return to the normal firing mode. If the DECREASE button is pressed while the CHGT prompt is displayed, the controller display returns to the normal firing mode. THRESHOLD ALARM- During the firing, it is possible to set an audible alarm and display alarm for when the actual temperature reaches a specified value. The buzzer will sound (for 30 seconds) and the display will show the alarm code ALAR.To set the alarm, press the INCREASE button during the active firing until the alarm prompt ALAR is displayed. Then press the PROGRAM button to display the current alarm temperature setting. Adjust the temperature setting with the INCREASE or DECREASE buttons. Then press the PROGRAM button to return to the normal firing mode. If the DECREASE button is pressed while the ALAr prompt is displayed, the controller display returns to the normal firing mode. The alarm is disabled (turned off) when the alarm value is set to 32°F (0ºC). The alarm value can be reset or changed many times during a single firing. To silence an active alarm, simply press any button. I hope these few tricks up your sleeves with help you get even more out of firing your kilns! Stay tuned for next week's PART TWO: 12-KEY CONTROLLER MAGIC! If you are interested in learning more about the different controller options that are available check out our controller option videos here! Your Kiln Gal, Gail
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