FrogBlog
The PERFECT kiln for bottle slumping
Glass bottle slumping is extremely popular because you don't need to buy expensive glass and it gives artists the opportunity to recycle wine and/or beer bottles. When thinking about buying a kiln for glass bottle slumping, it’s important to consider the size of the bottles and molds you are planning to use, before you buy it. Unfortunately, it’s not that easy as the long shape of glass bottles and bottle slumping molds make them hard to fit into many of the standard smaller, household current kilns. It’s like the Goldilocks syndrome… this one is too small, this one is too big but, this one is just right. So, with that mind, Paragon Industries accepted the challenge to create the perfect bottle slumping kiln. They recognized that most people who want to slump bottles want a kiln big enough to efficiently slump multiple wine and/or beer bottles at the same time. And, most don't have a 240v electrical circuit available, so they need the kiln to run on regular 120v household current. With those specifications as their guidelines… the rectangular Paragon S1310 Trio was born! And, is the only kiln specifically created for glass bottle slumping! Now that you have the perfect kiln, here are some tips to help you make your glass bottle slumping experience more successful: Remove labels. From washing soda to ammonia, there are many options when it comes to removing labels from bottles. Most involve hot water and soaking from a couple hours to overnight. After the label has been removed, remember to wash the bottles thoroughly under cold water to remove any residue. Many people also use isopropyl alcohol to clean fingerprints as cleaning the glass is critical to your success! Keep a log. Bottles come in diverse shapes, sizes and glass properties. Thicker bottles will take longer to heat and slump. Different shaped bottles will slump differently and at different rates. Different glass may have different melting temperatures. We suggest keeping a log of your firing. You may see some patterns that will help you get more consistent results. Sample Bottle Slumping Firing Schedule Be prepared to adjust. It's uncommon that a generic firing schedule will get you the perfect results without some modification. And, there are a million factors that can impact the temperature… maybe you loaded your kiln with more bottles, so it will take longer to heat. Or, like your oven, some kilns just run hot, while others run cold. Whatever the cause, you will need to adjust some parts of the firing schedule to get the best results from your kiln. Fusing bottles together. Glass compatibility, also referred to the coefficient of expansion or COE, is important to understand if you are going to be successful with glass bottle slumping. If you don’t use glass that has the same compatibility or COE, the stress will cause it to crack or break. Sometimes it happens immediately or sometimes is happens later... but, I can 100% guarantee that it will happen. Most bottles tend to be in the 82-86 COE range which is similar to float or window glass. However, since the COE of any given bottle glass is unknown, it is not recommended to fuse them with other bottles or fusible glass.
Read moreFrogBlog
Why do circuit breakers trip?
The circuit breaker is a switch that shuts off the electricity to protect the wiring from overheating. When I was growing up, the circuit breaker at my house would trip every time my mom and I were both drying our hair at the same time. So, as you can probably guess... that created an interesting dilemma. According to Arnold Howard from Paragon, "Breakers trip because both appliances pull more amperage than the circuit is designed to handle". With that said, the same scenario would apply to kilns. Too much amperage "pull" will cause immediate issues with your breaker. And, since we know that the circuit breaker is triggered by heat, Arnold suggests "that you keep your kiln at least 3’ - 4’ from the circuit breaker box". Other reasons that Arnold says kilns and ovens can keep tripping circuit breakers can include: Older Circuit Breaker: Breakers can become sensitive as they age. An overly sensitive circuit breaker can trip even when the wires are not overloaded with too much amperage. Corroded Connection: This can also trip the breaker, and is more of a problem in humid areas such as Hawaii.Loose Connection: A circuit breaker is triggered by heat. A tiny heating element heats a thermostat inside the breaker. A loose connection on the circuit breaker can cause the breaker to trip prematurely, because heat builds up at the loose connection. Loose connections get hot because tiny sparks form between the surfaces of the loose connection. An unusually warm circuit breaker panel indicates a loose connection. Dead Short: This will trip the circuit breaker, because the short causes a large amount of electricity to flow through the wires. Dead shorts trip the breaker immediately after the appliance is turned on. If the breaker trips when you turn on your kiln, open the kiln’s control panel and look for a wire or heating element that touches the kiln's steel case. If you encounter any of these situations, please reach out to an electrical professional for assistance as you more than likely will have to replace your breaker.
Read more
OMG... my beloved fiber kiln has a crack!
Aging is never a pretty thing, but just cause your outside is starting to show a little wear, doesn’t mean your insides aren’t perfectly strong! You can always spruce up cosmetic flaws with a little filler. Wait... are we talking about faces or kilns? It’s perfectly normal for every kiln to to develop heat generated cracks over time and use. We all know that firebrick cracks, but so can ceramic fiber. As each material heats and cools, it will expand and contract with each firing. This will inevitably cause those pesky cracks. Most cracks in your fiber are minor and mostly cosmetic, but they can also occur on a firing surface on an all fiber kiln. Since the fiber is such a good insulator, those cracks you see on the surface hardly allow any heat to be lost. That is... unless you have a gaping hole to the outside.If you’re not sure what kind of material your kiln is made from, here’s the lowdown on how can you tell a ceramic fiber kiln from a firebrick kiln from Arnold Howard, Engineer at Paragon, "Ceramic fiber is white, light-weight, and has a fairly smooth surface. Firebricks are porous. A firebrick firing chamber has seam lines where the firebricks are cemented together." For fiber kilns, if you are concerned about those ugly surface cracks, you can fill them with a product called Pyrolite E-Z Fill, a refractory adhesive that comes pre-loaded into a caulking tube. Arnold’s easy to follow instructions for filling damaged areas of ceramic fiber are listed below... so, go get yourself a caulking gun and let’s get to it!HOW TO REPAIR A CERAMIC FIBER KILN WITH PYROLITE1) Unplug the kiln. Scrape/sand the ceramic fiber to remove glass, ceramic glaze, or other melted contaminants. Remove as little fiber as possible. If a heating element is located where you are scraping, avoid touching the element.2) Vacuum the dust from the damaged area. Remove all the contaminant. Otherwise it will melt and embed deeper into the firing chamber. Keep the vacuum cleaner nozzle at least 2” from the thermocouple and the controller. This is to avoid damaging the controller with static electricity, which can build up on the nozzle.3) Squeeze the Pyrolite into the gouge. Pyrolite is similar in consistency to window caulking. Smooth the Pyrolite with a small putty knife or credit card and smooth it evenly. Allow it to dry before firing the kiln. You can send to level and smooth after the Pyrolite is fired.I hope this little cosmetic tip helps you spruce up, and makes you and your kiln feel young again! If you are interested in a fiber kiln, check out our five best-selling fiber kilns: Jen-Ken AF3P ProFusion Fiber 16 Jen-Ken AFG ProFusion Fiber 26 Jen-Ken AFG ProFusion Fiber 26 Deep Olympic 126 Lite
Read more
High Heat = Shorter Life Span
Unfortunately, it's true... All those pesky parts inside the controller box with prolonged exposure to high heat, will have a shorter lifespan. And, if you don't have solid state relays, those mechanical relays inside the box when exposed to high heat will be more prone to locking in the closed or on position. So, what is high heat, and how can I prevent it to ensure a longer life for my kiln? Many studios have kilns located in areas without environmental controls and poor airflow (This is a fancy way to no air conditioning.), which causes the ambient temperature to be well above 110°F... a.k.a. high heat! This is especially true for those us of with kilns located in the garage. This is hard not just on the relays but also on the digital controllers. To counteract those high ambient temperatures and improve the lifespan of your controller, we suggest using a fan to blow air across the electric components. It doesn't need to be a large, industrial fan. Just a small, four to eight inch fan on low speed will be very effective. We use a personal desk fan and it works perfectly Hot Shot Oven and Kilns came up with an incredible Cool-Touch technology that cools a Hot Shot kiln through small vents attached to the back of the kiln so that it's possible to touch it even when while it's being fired. Check out our Hot Shot selection to find out more about the different models we have.
Read more
How do I test for accurate temperatures in my kiln?
In case you don’t know, a thermocouple is the nubby, sticky-outie thing inside your kiln that takes the temperature and reports it to the controller. This is a picture of what your thermocouple looks like inside your kiln. I had a great conversation about this with Jim Simmons, Production Manager at Evenheat Kilns. He said, “Most manufacturers tell customers that a variance of +/- 20F degrees is an acceptable target to stay within the temperature range.” But in my experience, most of us usually can adjust within about +/- 50F degrees and still be able to accommodate the changes. He also said, “It’s time to change the thermocouple when the room temperature reading is OVER 50F degrees above or below the true room temps. A thermocouple offset is also an option that your manufacturer can walk you through.” But, in my opinion, it's not a good solution to override a faulty part. Changing out a thermocouple is an easy and less expensive thing you can do to keep your kiln singing along. For most manufacturers, a thermocouple is in the price range of $40-75. He was pretty specific about this one point, “When thermocouples wear out, you begin to get into an “over fire” situation, which means the temperature of the kiln reads LOWER than the actual firing temperature in the kiln. If you don’t change out your thermocouple soon, it’s just gonna get worse.” This was actually happening with one of my old kilns. It was 8 years old, and it got quite the workout! The controller was reading 1325F, but the firing results really looked like 1425F. This is a clear sign that it’s time to change out that old thermo! I was lazy about it, even though knew I needed to do it. Like my hero Maya Angelou said, "When you know better, you do better!" Jim shared this last tidbit... we love Jim, but it’s pretty techie stuff… “Here’s the technical formula. The air in your kiln, plus the tip of the thermocouple -2 degrees or .4% of temperature, whichever is greater, that is the temperature differential between the tip of the thermocouple to whatever material you have in the kiln. Temps are measured by millivolts on the tip of the thermocouple. Who knows (the engineers know) how that really works for us everyday “Joes,” but you could get another digital pyrometer, drill a hole next to the other thermocouple, and place that in the kiln. One thermo would then prove or disprove the other thermo, as long as the first thermo was calibrated correctly at the factory. There’s really no way you could accurately do this in the studio or shop.” Well, there you have it. It sounds like we have three options: Manually do the adjustment and change your programs accordingly to accommodate the +/- temp factors of your particular kiln. Call the manufacturer and have them walk you through a thermocouple offset on your controller. Do what I did! Spend the $55 dollars and change out the thermocouple. Good luck! And may all your kiln temperatures read true! If you need a thermocouple, click here to view our website and talk to one of our experts to get the right one for you.
Read more
“What to Expect, When You’re Expecting!”
Waiting for a kiln is like waiting for new a baby to arrive. You have the relief of "I’ve have finally made the decision", and the adrenaline rush of " Now, I’m ready to begin the new adventure.” And then nothing happens… crickets chirp and you wait… and you wait. You are constantly checking your e-mail waiting for the tracking and delivery information to arrive in your inbox. For most of us it's like waiting for a pot to boil... the more you watch, the longer it takes. At Kiln Frog, we understand, and we get it! We recognize that you are dying to know exactly which day it’s coming, and how soon you can get started. And, we know that waiting stinks! Currently, most kiln companies build kilns to order due to the immense amount of customization options they offer. Only the smallest 120v table top kilns, like the SC3 or SC2 Pro, with the most generic options are built and ready to leave the factory immediately. In addition, the demand for certain types of kilns is so high that the manufactures just can’t keep up. In today’s economy, the manufacturers would rather create lag times for delivery, then bring in more production staff and risk layoffs. Additionally, kiln building is a relatively specific skill. A lot of training is required to be knowledgeable and proficient, and that takes investment too. So, we all prefer that the kiln companies take their time and build ‘em right! While you are waiting, here are some things you can do to be ready when the kiln arrives: Make space for your new baby to live. Plan for 12 inches of space between the kiln and everything else. Make sure the space is clean from dust and debris.Clear a space for the box/pallet to live while you are unpacking the kiln. Chances are the freight company or even UPS/FedEx, etc. will place the pallet or box in your garage, but you will need to have a covered, clean and dry space ready so that you can take your time assembling things like your stand, etc. Some models come with stands assembled, and some do not.Get yourself a set of nut drivers and a multi-meter from the home improvement store. You’re going to need them if you’re ever going to do any maintenance on your kiln. You might even need the nut drivers to put together your stand.Make sure the space your planning to put the kiln is less than 6 feet from the receptacle. Most kilns only have a 6-foot cord, and the bigger the kiln, the fatter the cord, making it less likely to bend around corners, etc.Make sure you plan for a working surface. Somewhere near your kiln to store kiln wash, posts, extra shelves, gloves, tools etc. Make plans for someone to help you unpack the kiln. Only the smallest 120v table top kilns can be a “one man job.” If you lack the upper body strength to lift 40 pounds alone, prearrange some help. Do this BEFORE the kiln arrives so that you’ve set the stage to get going sooner rather than later.Have a plan for debris removal. What will you do with pallet? The box, the foam, the strapping, the plastic, etc. That packing material is coming, how will you get it gone??Pre-read the manuals and watch the controller videos on YouTube. Be familiar with your kiln and controller before it arrives. Maybe purchase some fun technique books to inspire your work!If you haven’t heard from us in 6 weeks, feel free to drop us an email and inquire as to what we know about your kiln. We typically check with the manufacturer at the three-week mark if we see your kiln has not shipped yet. If there’s a problem, we’ll let you know.Great service is our #1 priority! We know you’re anxious to get your new kiln and get going, so we humbly ask, please be patient. We don’t build ‘em, and we have no control if a manufacturer gets behind due to mechanical problems at the factory, weather related issues, shipping delays, etc. We want what you want, your kiln in perfect working order, delivered in one piece, in a timely manner...And most importantly, a happy, happy customer!
Read more
Discoloration on kilns with fiber
Fiber kilns are constructed of rigidized fiber to keep the walls nice and stiff. Some kiln companies pre-fire their fiber at the factory to a satisfactory temperature so that any excess rigidizer burns away while others do not. As you can never be 100% positive that all of the excess rigidizer is gone, a good fiber burnout is usually necessary. With that said, before you put anything in the kiln, fire your new fiber kilns up to 1500°F and hold for one hour. Make sure to do this in a well-ventilated area, like an open garage, near an open window or your back porch because as the heat increases, the excess rigidizer may begin to steam, and well, yes even get a bit stinky. We get a lot of calls about this but, don't panic as it is totally normal. As the process continues, the nice white fiber board may even begin to turn brown and discolor. But, once the temp reaches 1500°F the toasty looking area should return to pristine white. If there is a lot of rigidzer, the area may remain slightly discolored or seem stained. Again, don't worry, as this will not effect the firing of the kiln, or later, the glass inside. Discoloration happens a lot when you use fiber papers like Thinfire or Papyrus. It’s just happening inside the kiln, so you don’t see it. If you vent your kiln while using these papers, the burnout process can discolor the edges of your kiln lid. Again, this just isn’t a real problem, just a cosmetic blemish. Think of this as smile lines from the joys of using your kiln! Learn more about fiber vs. brick kilns...
Read more