FrogBlog
Understanding Kiln Relays: For New Kiln Buyers and Owners
Ah, the timeless query of kiln shopping: "Which kiln relays should I go for?" It's like asking a chef for their salt preference – important, but let's not get too salty about it. Kiln relays are like the Elon Musk of the kiln world – well-known but often misunderstood. If you're scratching your head wondering about relays, don't fret. This article will shed light on the topic, enlighten you, and make you wonder how you ever survived without this knowledge. Your kiln's relays are the VIPs of the whole kiln operation. Treat them right, and they'll keep your artistic dreams alive. Neglect them, and you'll end up with a sad, cold kiln. So, let's grasp the basics of relays, so we can discuss relay care and maintenance. What are kiln relays, and how do they work? A kiln relay functions as a gatekeeper, regulating the electric current in a kiln. When a relay is closed, it allows energy to flow to the kiln's heating elements, making them hotter. Conversely, when the relay is open, the circuit is interrupted, and no electricity reaches the coils, resulting in no heat. Larger kilns are equipped with multiple relays, each controlling a specific area. Imagine relays as bouncers at a nightclub. They ensure things don't get too hot with an overcrowded club. They let in just enough people to heat up the action, then close the door to maintain the perfect temperature. When things cool down, the relay receives the signal to allow more people onto the dance floor (the element), restarting the cycle. That clicking sound your kiln makes during firing? It's the mechanical relays cycling on and off, akin to a bouncer opening and closing the club door to maintain the desired temperature. What are the different types of kiln relays, and how do they differ in function and longevity? Just imagine you're cruising down the highway, wind in your hair, not a care in the world because you never have to change your car's tires! No more struggling with lug nuts or getting your hands dirty. Ah, the relaxing feeling of never having to deal with a flat tire or the dreaded tire store. It's like winning the lottery, but without the money or the fame. Mercury and solid-state relays are kind of like that, they're the choose-it and forget-it component of your kiln that you'll never be sorry you chose. Mechanical relays are like the candles on a birthday cake - they have a limited lifespan and eventually need to be replaced. They'll last you about as long as a Kardashian marriage, so make sure to cherish every click. There are three main types of kiln relays: 1. Mercury relays: These use a tube of mercury with an internal weight that determines whether the mercury rises to complete the electrical contact. With fewer moving parts, mercury relays have an impressively long functional life, typically lasting around 5 million cycles. They are nearly indestructible, but due to mercury disposal concerns, some states no longer allow their use. 2. Solid-State relays: Operating with power semiconductor devices, solid-state relays have no moving parts. They control the flow of electricity by opening and closing. Due to their lack of moving parts, these relays boast an exceptionally long functional life, said to surpass 1000 years! They offer tighter temperature controls because they cycle faster, which is also said to save energy. 3. Mechanical relays: These relays utilize electric current to move a contact, either opening or closing the circuit using an electromagnetic switch. Mechanical relays do have moving parts and because of that they have a limited lifespan. On average, they last around 200,000 cycles (clicks), which translates to approximately 18-36 months, depending on usage, firing temperatures, and schedules. Why is it crucial to monitor the health of kiln relays? Imagine if your trusty relay suddenly called it quits. It's either going to be a hot mess or a complete blackout. If the relay stays open, you'll be left with a cold and useless kiln – no heat for you! On the other hand, if it fails in the closed position, get ready for an intense blast of unending heat. Neglecting to monitor your mechanical relays can turn your project into a disaster, leading to kiln meltdowns or accidental kiln damage. While larger kilns with multiple relays offer some backup, you'll still sense that something has gone awry. When should you replace your kiln Relays? Now, let's address the million-dollar question: When should you replace your kiln relays? Well, imagine your relays belting out Whitney Houston's "I Will Always Love You." That's your cue to bid them farewell! The lifespan of your relays depends on their type. If you have mercury or solid-state relays, consider them ageless wonders that can last the entire lifespan of your kiln, just like Rob Lowe's ever-youthful career or the timeless elegance of Jane Fonda, or even Cher. They just don't age! A periodic visual inspection should suffice to ensure their good health. However, if you're rocking a mechanical kiln relay, it's a different story. These relays have moving parts, which means they eventually wear out like a neglected houseplant. On average, you can expect them to last around 18 to 36 months. Of course, usage, firing temperatures, and firing schedules play a role, so it's best to replace them every 18-24 months as a precautionary measure. Luckily, some kiln manufacturers have added nifty features to make relay monitoring easier. Jen-Ken Kilns has installed a "pilot light" on every relay of every model. It's like having your own personal relay detective! If the light stays dark when the relay fires, you know there's a problem with the element, relay, or connection. Evenheat Kilns introduced a relay access door, a secret passage to a world of wires and switches. It's a magical portal that saves your fingers from untangling wires like a hopeless spaghetti chef. When it's time to replace a relay: Be sure to check for heat damage on the old relay. Look for melted spots in the plastic body, indicating excessive heat. In such cases, replace the push-on terminal of the wire connected to the relay before installing the new one. Loose terminals can wreak havoc on the new relay, as they generate excessive heat and compromise performance. Remember, a well-maintained kiln with healthy relays will keep your creative projects on track. So, embrace the kiln relay journey, have some fun with it, and keep those artistic dreams alive. And hey, who knew kiln relays could be so entertaining? Now go forth and conquer the world of kiln-firing with your newfound relay knowledge! For more information on kiln relays and replacing them, check out these resources from our trusted manufacturers: Evenheat Kilns: Relay Replacement via Access Port Showcase Paragon Kilns: Relay Replacement Guide and YouTube video. Olympic Kilns: Relay Replacement Guide Jen-Ken Kilns: Small Relay and Large Relay So, there you have it! Kiln relays may seem like hidden heroes, but they play a vital role in the success of your creations. Understanding their purpose, types, and lifespan is key to maintaining a well-functioning kiln. Remember to regularly inspect your relays, replace them when necessary, and keep an eye out for any signs of heat damage. Now, armed with this newfound knowledge, you can confidently embark on your kiln-firing adventures. Whether you're a seasoned artist or just starting out, the dance between you and your kiln relays will be one of artistry, precision, and, most importantly, creativity. So, turn up the heat, let the kiln roar, and let your imagination run wild as you create beautiful ceramic pieces with the assistance of your trusty kiln relays. Happy firing! Need to order replacement relays? This form can help!Or if you know what you need, here is a link to order mechanical relays If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask. You can talk to a real person on the phone immediately (361-596-3764), or via instant chat (click here to start a chat now), email (customerservice@kilnfrog.com) or via real time texting (361-596-3764) - you choose! (We promise we will respond during regular business hours.) Enjoy your artistic journey!
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Hunting for a Dead Short in a Kiln
This post was written by Arnold Howard, a former employee at Paragon Industries who is now an independent kiln technician at Howard Kiln Services. The owner of a Paragon A-24B called to tell me he saw sparks flash inside the switch box on his kiln, and the circuit breaker tripped. He could see the flash through the ventilation louvers on the side of the box. “It made a loud noise that scared the hell out of me,” he said. “It happened when I turned the bottom switch to high.” “Your kiln has a dead short,” I told him. A dead short causes a large amount of electricity to flow suddenly through the wires. This shuts off the circuit breaker for your kiln because the surge of electricity is much greater than the amperage rating of the circuit breaker. A dead short usually happens when the protective insulation on a wire has been damaged, and the bare wire touches either another wire, an element connector, or the steel case of the kiln. After arriving at the customer's home, the first thing I did was open the switch box by removing hex-head screws with a 1/4” nut driver. The screws are on the sides of the switch box of most kilns. You can buy the 1/4” nut driver from a hardware store. Some brands of kilns require a different size nut driver. If the size you need is not available locally, you can order one online. This may be the case overseas as the 1/4” size is uncommon there. Remember, always BE SAFE! If you ever remove the switch box on your kiln, first unplug the kiln. This is essential because otherwise you will be exposed to live wires inside the opened box. In the first photo, you can see the element connectors, which are small brass barrels with a screw-on each end. Notice that a wire is attached to each connector. In the A-24B, those wires go to switches. In digital kilns, the wires go to relays, which turn the elements on and off. Lying on the garage floor, under the shadow of my lamplight, I hunted for the dead short. Since the sparks flashed when the bottom switch was turned to high, I started my search at the bottom of the switch box. In the second photo, you can see where the short occurred. Look at the element connector in the bottom center half of the photo. It is the blackened brass barrel that is against a white porcelain insulator. The element connectors are the hottest items in the switch box. If a wire touches an element connector, the insulation on the wire can eventually burn off and cause a dead short. In the bottom right corner of the photo is a red wire with a burned spot. That burned spot is where the wire touched the element connector. The spark blackened the connector. With any routine kiln maintenance, you or your kiln technician will need to open the switch box or protective cover panel on your kiln if you ever change a thermocouple, relay, switch, or repair a damaged wire. As you can see from the photos, it is important that as you reinstall the switch box or panel onto the kiln, check that the wires will not touch an element connector. To be sure that the wires would not touch element connectors or the kiln case, I looked at the wires from the side while closing the switch box, tucking some of the wires out of the way inside the box. Then I carefully positioned the switch box on the kiln and installed the screws. You might want to shine a flashlight into ventilation slots or louvers to check the position of the wires one last time after you have reinstalled the switch box. As you can see from this story, major kiln problems can be avoided by taking just a moment to check the small details whenever anyone works on your kiln. Thanks, Arnold!
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How Low Voltage Affects Firing Time
Knowledge is POWER! Making sure you have the correct voltage is one of the most important factors of kiln efficiency! Plug the kiln into the correct circuit. Low voltage can double the firing time. If your kiln is firing too slowly, make sure the voltage listed on the kiln’s electrical data plate matches the voltage of the electric circuit. The electrical data plate is usually located on the side of the kiln or the switch box. Firing a 240-volt kiln on 208 volts reduces the kiln’s power by 25%. Even a small drop in voltage can affect the firing speed. Low voltage has the same effect as firing with worn out elements. Even a small drop in voltage can slow down your kiln. For example, we test-fired a 120-volt kiln that took 5 hours and 3 minutes to reach 2331°F (1277°C). On a separate electric circuit, the same test kiln took only 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach 2350°F (1287°C). The difference in voltage between the two circuits? Only 7 volts. Fire the kiln when the voltage is highest. Turn off other large appliances. If your kiln ever slows down temporarily, do not assume that it is due to worn elements. The voltage to your building may have dropped due to peak demand. Have an electrician check the voltage under load while the kiln is firing. Until you know the voltage, an amp reading of the kiln won’t tell you much, because low voltage also causes low amperage. If the voltage is low during a period of peak demand, fire your kiln when the electrical demand is lower and the voltage is higher. Fire at night or early morning. Also, turn off other large electrical appliances such as a clothes dryer while the kiln is firing. Program at a slower rate. A digital controller will show error messages when it has been programmed at a faster rate than the kiln is capable of firing. This can happen even when the voltage is normal and the kiln is new. You may be using a firing schedule that is designed for a faster kiln. In this case, program at a slower rate. Moist clay can slow down the kiln. Another reason your kiln may be firing slowly is that the firing chamber has too much moisture. Firing moist ceramic greenware or moist glass molds can slow down the kiln. Dry these materials before firing them. Reduce the load density. Overloading a kiln with a dense load of ceramics and kiln furniture can also slow down the firing. Have the power company check the transformer. If the kiln still fires too slowly after following the suggestions above, have the power company check your voltage and readjust the transformer for your area if necessary. You can also request that your power company put a voltage recording unit at your location to check the voltage over an extended period.
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Creating Hollow Beads with Cork Clay
Cork clay is the perfect filler to create hollow shapes with Metal Clay. After creating the shape with cork clay, you must allow it to dry for at least 24 hours. Do not force-dry the cork clay with a heat gun. After it's dry, coat the cork clay with metal clay. Cork clay creations are usually fired in small jewelry kilns such as the Paragon SC-3 or Cress Kilns - C1006B It is important to fire cork clay in a well-ventilated area. Open windows and circulate the air with a fan. To prevent the cork from flaming out, always keep the kiln door closed between 500° - 800°F. Also, to give the cork enough time to burn out, fire no faster than 1500F per hour. Leave the kiln’s vent plug out from the beginning until around 800 °F. Hold at that temperature for 1 hour. After the hold, insert the vent plug and continue to fire the metal clay to the clay manufacturer’s recommended temperature. ⚠️Caution: When venting materials such as cork clay, remove the vent plug at the beginning of the firing. If you forgot to vent the kiln at the beginning of the firing, do not remove the plug later. Removing it later during the firing may cause the organic materials to flame up for a moment. If you ever remove the vent plug and the cork clay flames up, keep the kiln door closed so the flames can die out safely. Do not fire cork clay in a microwave kiln (the type that is placed inside a household microwave oven). The microwave kiln fires too fast to properly burn out the cork clay. Just for fun... cereal, pasta, and bread are other good core materials. Do not use wax or Styrofoam as a core as they emit harmful fumes.
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Bringing Home Your New Kiln
Many artists assume they need to rent a dedicated space to work on kiln-glass projects. But you can accomplish a lot in a home studio with just a kiln, a table or bench, and some basic tools. In this Bullseye Glass short 4-part video lesson, they set up a home studio around a Paragon Fiber Fuse-16, a compact top-loading kiln used in many home studios. Plus, they cover basics like tools, furniture, and other equipment; where to place your kiln; and how to prepare for your first firing. Additionally, safety in your new studio is always important! Here are some things to consider: Good housekeeping and common sense go a long way toward ensuring safety in the kiln forming studio. Ventilate your studio well, keep dust to a minimum, and confine hazardous materials to a limited area. Avoid eating and drinking in the studio. Toxins and dust are easily ingested when you handle food and kiln-working materials in the same space. Wash your hands upon leaving the studio. If you can’t change clothes, wear a smock or apron while you work. To avoid tracking dust and toxins to other locations, consider dedicating a pair of shoes to studio use only. Thoroughly read the manual and other information provided by the manufacturer. Operate your kiln in a well-ventilated area. Full-fuse firings of glass on primed shelves will not release fumes, but firings that involve fibers, enamels, glazes, and other materials can. Avoid burns by wearing protective clothing. Use heatresistant gloves whenever opening a hot kiln. Always turn off the power before reaching into a hot kiln (for example, during glass combing or other manual forming). Protect your eyes. Looking into a hot kiln for prolonged periods of time exposes your eyes to potentially damaging infrared light. Excessive exposure can cause cataracts. Wear safety glasses with protective ANSI shade 1.7 lenses. Didymium glasses used for flameworking DO NOT provide protection from infrared light. Want more on specific hazards, check out Bullseye Safety in the Kiln-Glass Studio!
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Why is my Kiln or Oven Not Heating Properly?
Let's be honest... using a kiln comes with its share of emotional ups and downs.
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Everyone Needs a Good First Aid Kit!
A good first aid kit is a must in all studios and workshops, as accidents can happen anytime, anywhere, and it’s better to be prepared than to find yourself scrambling around for a bandage or disinfectant. Been there, done that! Let's face it... we all know it's gonna happen! A small cut may seem insignificant at the time, but if it gets infected you could be out of action for weeks. This is especially important in a teaching environment so, if you have students, make sure you are prepared! An effective first aid kit provides plasters, bandages, scissors, tweezers, and antiseptic wipes, as well as burn ointment, eye wash, and gauze pads. Here are links to our favorite First Aid Kit essentials: Johnson & Johnson Red Cross All Purpose First Aid Kit Clean, treat, protect, and care for cuts, scrapes, minor burns, itches, pain, skin rashes and insect bites with the Johnson & Johnson Red Cross All Purpose First Aid Kit. This versatile kit contains 140 first aid essentials, including cleansing wipes, gauze pads, antibiotic ointment, itch stopping cream, acetaminophen caplets, an instant cold pack, bandages, non-stick pads, rolled gauze, and more. Supplies come packaged in a durable, plastic box that keeps your items accessible, and organized! Medipoint Splinter Out Splinter Remover If you have anything in your studio or workshop, this is a MUST! Maybe, we should have made it #1... as everyone who works in glass knows that those splinters are the worst! Splinter Out is better than a needle because it is steam autoclave sterilized, and has a sharp tri-bevel point that is designed for loosening and pulling out splinters. There are 20 sterile splinter removers per box. Wall Mountable Eye and Skin Flush Station Eyewash Stations are critical! They are intended to mitigate eye injuries when control methods (eyeglasses or protective eyewear) do not prevent exposure to a physical or chemical irritant or biological agent. This Eye and Skin Flush Station includes two bottles of eye isotonic buffered solution with wall mount. Plus, an eyecup for easily focusing the fluid stream into affected eyes. Natural Burn Ointment / Silver Sulfadiazine Cream When you accidentally touch the bead or piece of metal because it looks cool... it becomes pretty important to have a good burn cream close by! FYI... This was actually the first thing I ever used from our first aid kit! ASAP365 Silver Gel by American Biotech Labs is formulated using their unique and patented 20 PPM SilverSol Technology solution. This silver gel can not only help to hydrate your skin but has also been shown to promote natural healing so, it's perfect to use as a natural burn ointment. WARNING: If you have a sulfur allergy, this is NOT for you! Keep in mind that a first aid kit is meant to be used to treat minor cuts, abrasions, and burns. You should never rely on a first aid kit to handle more severe injuries. As an Amazon Associate, Kiln Frog may earn from qualifying purchases.
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