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Ask Arnold: Arnold's Firebrick Repair Toolkit
Ask Arnold

Ask Arnold: Arnold's Firebrick Repair Toolkit

Gail Stouffer

  Kiln Pointer from Paragon: Arnold's Firebrick Repair Toolbox ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Contents A Firebrick Repair Toolbox Book Recommendation: "Clay: A Studio Handbook" Reader Response Firebrick Repair Toolbox -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------      A Firebrick Repair Toolbox Ever since I left Paragon and became an independent kiln technician, hunting for tools has been my biggest waste of time. So I have sorted my kiln tools into four tool boxes (along with a vacuum cleaner and air compressor). Recently I put all of my firebrick tools into one box where I can find them instantly. Here they are, going clockwise from left to right in the photo: Plastic or Aluminum Foil Tray: It should be large enough to dip firebrick pieces into kiln cement. This is much faster than applying the cement with a putty knife. You have to work quickly, or the cement will begin to set before the repair parts are pressed together. The faster you work, the better the bond. Kiln Wash: Apply to the firebrick kiln bottom and the Kiln Sitter cone supports. Kiln wash looks like kiln cement. IMPORTANT: Keep these powders separated and clearly marked. Spray Bottle: Spray a little water onto firebrick parts that you are cementing together. This helps the cement to adhere to the firebricks. If you work fast, you won’t need the water at all. Plastic Cups: If you don’t have these, you will constantly hunt for a container to mix the cement in. Clean and reuse indefinitely. 2” Paint Brush: Thin kiln cement to coffee cream consistency. Then brush onto surfaces that you want to harden, such as the top of sidewalls in a top-loading kiln. Immediately wipe off the cement with a rag. Paragon Liquid Kiln Cement: I like the liquid kiln repair cement, because it’s fast and convenient. This is the very same cement used in the Paragon factory. Scrap Firebricks: Cut pieces to replace broken sections in a kiln. Paragon Dry Kiln Cement: This is for when you run out of liquid kiln cement. You can also mix the powder to the exact consistency that you want. Rag: For wiping off kiln coating and for general clean up. Repairing firebricks is messy. Paint Mixing Stick: For mixing kiln cement and kiln wash. Stir kiln wash constantly as you use it. DeWalt DWHT20542 Multi-saw: This comes with a coarse blade and a hacksaw blade. Use it to cut firebricks. I found this at Home Depot. You can find other brands, of course. 3M Sanding Block: Medium grit sandpaper works well in shaping firebricks. 3M Sponge Sanding Block: Sand the edges of firebrick lid grooves to remove loose debris. You can cut the sponge to the size you need.  Marinade Injector: I found the “Good Cook Flavor Injector” at Tom Thumb. Use it to inject kiln cement deep into the cracks in firebrick kiln walls and floor. I will cover this in detail another time. HEPA Vacuum Cleaner and HEPA mask (not shown): Wear the mask when working around firebrick powder. Vacuum firebrick parts before cementing.   Book Recommendation: "Clay: A Studio Handbook" Vince Pitelka, well-known for his teaching and his contributions to Clay Times, here tells you more than you ever thought you needed to know about pottery. He shares a lifetime of knowledge. Click here to see much more about Vince's book   Reader Response Last week I wrote that I left Paragon in August, 2019 to become an independent kiln technician in the Dallas - San Antonio, Texas area. The day after I left Paragon, I was replacing elements at a school in Fort Worth. I also wrote that doing something creative helps one to forget the daily news. A few of the responses from readers-- “Many thanks, Arnold, for your Kiln Pointers and also your paragraph on facing world events,” wrote Ruth Canham of Nahiku Art Glass in Hawaii. “I don’t know how I would have made in through the last couple of weeks without having my kiln to keep me busy. First, I took on the challenge of trying strip construction with reactive glass. After that I went on to making whimsical birds. It’s kind of freeing in a weird way to have the galleries closed. Time to play.” ---------- “Thanks for sharing the electrical knowledge,” wrote Alexander Riedel. “Many are terrified of electricity when it can really be very simple if you know what to look for and how to do it safely. “From my experience working on industrial foundry ovens,” Alexander continued, “it’s always something incredibly simple when it comes to electrical problems. It just takes a while to chase it down: a loose connection, limit switches slipping from loosening, fouled relay contacts, a wire or nut that loosened from expansion/contraction, overheated or broken elements. I also really enjoyed the quote about the studio being a place away from reality.”  ---------- “The nose told the story,” wrote Fujie Robesky. “Great detective work. Good to hear you’re still working in what you obviously love.” ---------- “The Kiln Pointer email was a breath of fresh air!” wrote Andy Reeves ---------- “No telling what changes we will see from all this," wrote Pattie Necaise about the virus. “I think there will be good changes. We just might value people more than things.” ---------- “It was good to hear from you, like hearing from an old friend, although we’ve never met. Thanks so much for the many pointers through the years,” wrote Colleen Gilligan Gilbert of Cypress, Texas. “I work at a non-profit that serves adults with intellectual disabilities, and I help them earn a paycheck by making and selling fused glass,” she explained. “We have three big Paragon kilns--two Ovations and a Pearl-44. We got the first Ovation on my first day here over 10 years ago. We have used the heck out of these kilns, firing them every afternoon. “Right now it’s very quiet here, as all our folks are staying away from our Learning Activity Center for their own health and safety. I continue to do paperwork, and look forward to the hustle and bustle of their return.”   The Rain in Mesquite This morning before dawn, I sat in my sunroom listening to the rain. It drummed softly on the steel roof and splashed into a puddle outside. I felt like I was in the steel-roofed A-frame that I built in Leilani Estates near Pahoa, Hawaii. The rain fell in sheets there. The rain cleanses the world and sounds comforting.   Thank you, Arnold Howard Mobile 972-333-1437 www.instagram.com/arnoldhowardkilns www.facebook.com/arnoldhoward

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Increasing the Life of your Firebrick Kiln
Firebrick

Increasing the Life of your Firebrick Kiln

Throughout the years, we have seen 10+ year old kilns with firebricks that are still in pristine condition and relatively new kilns that looked like they had been dropped from a three-story roof. It's pretty easy to tell when a kiln has been cared for and given that extra level of TLC or, what we like to call "KLC"... Kiln Loving Care!  Here are a few tips from Arnold Howard at Paragon Industries on how to give your firebrick kiln that extra Kiln Loving Care: 1. Vaccuuming is a must. Vacuum the kiln interior regularly using the soft brush nozzle of a vacuum cleaner. Be sure to vacuum the element grooves, the inner surface of the kiln lid or roof, and the underside of kiln shelves and be gentle when you touch the firebricks with the nozzle. Vacuuming the grooves is essential if you have had anything explode inside the kiln. Pieces of greenware that lodge inside the grooves can burn out an element. Vacuum the kiln often if you use silica sand on the shelves. The sand, which is used to support ware during firing, can ruin the elements if it filters down into an element groove. As you vacuum the kiln, examine the walls for glass or glaze particles that have embedded into the firebricks. Dig these out carefully. Otherwise the particles will embed deeper into the firebrick during the next firing. 2. Kiln Wash is your friend. Apply kiln wash, liquid kiln coating or glass separator to the kiln’s firebrick bottom. But keep kiln wash away from the walls and elements. On Kiln Frog you can find kiln wash for glass and kiln wash for ceramic. 3. Dry your greenware. If possible, do not fire moist greenware. It should be bone-dry and warm to the touch. If you must fire moist greenware, wait until all signs of vapor have disappeared before heating past 200 degrees F. The moisture at higher temperatures is not good for the firebricks and can cause the greenware to explode. 4. Be gentle. Lower the kiln lid (or close the kiln door) gently. Slamming the lid can crack the lid the first time it happens. Fully disengage the lid support before lowering the lid. Forcing the lid downward can break the bricks near the lid hinge. From time to time, check the condition of the lid support. 5. Keep closed. Keep the lid closed when you are not using the kiln. This keeps dust out and prevents the lid from dropping while you are away from the kiln. Do not store anything inside the kiln. 6. Level it. The kiln stand should be level and rock-steady. An unleveled stand can stress the firebricks. A stand that rocks can cause the kiln to move when jarred, knocking over ware against the sidewalls inside the kiln. 7. Don't lean on me. Do not lean too heavily against the firebrick walls while loading and unloading. Some people use a small stepladder to reach into a deep kiln. You can also cut a piece of plywood to fit across the wall that helps protect the wall during loading. 8. Try not to touch. During loading and unloading, do not touch the sidewalls of the kiln with anything. Do not allow a shelf to bump into the firebricks. The extra time and care you spend loading and unloading may add years of life to your kiln.  9. Always look for drips. If glaze, glass, or other materials drip onto a kiln wall or the kiln bottom, repair before the next firing. Otherwise these materials will remelt and embed deeper into the firebricks. Remove the contaminant by scraping gently with a putty knife. If you remove kiln wash from the kiln bottom, apply a fresh coat to the bare spot.    10. Don't worry! Do not be concerned about small cracks that appear in the firebricks. The cracks are normal and act as expansion joints. During firing, they close tightly. Finally, if a firebrick edge breaks off, don’t stress. The damage is usually slight and does not affect the firings, and can easily be repaired with our Firebrick Kiln Repair Kit.

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“What to Expect, When You’re Expecting!”
Evenheat Kilns & Ovens

“What to Expect, When You’re Expecting!”

Waiting for a kiln is like waiting for new a baby to arrive. You have the relief of "I’ve have finally made the decision", and the adrenaline rush of " Now, I’m ready to begin the new adventure.” And then nothing happens… crickets chirp and you wait… and you wait. You are constantly checking your e-mail waiting for the tracking and delivery information to arrive in your inbox. For most of us it's like waiting for a pot to boil... the more you watch, the longer it takes.  At Kiln Frog, we understand, and we get it! We recognize that you are dying to know exactly which day it’s coming, and how soon you can get started. And, we know that waiting stinks! Currently, most kiln companies build kilns to order due to the immense amount of customization options they offer. Only the smallest 120v table top kilns, like the SC3 or SC2 Pro, with the most generic options are built and ready to leave the factory immediately. In addition, the demand for certain types of kilns is so high that the manufactures just can’t keep up. In today’s economy, the manufacturers would rather create lag times for delivery, then bring in more production staff and risk layoffs. Additionally, kiln building is a relatively specific skill. A lot of training is required to be knowledgeable and proficient, and that takes investment too. So, we all prefer that the kiln companies take their time and build ‘em right! While you are waiting, here are some things you can do to be ready when the kiln arrives: Make space for your new baby to live. Plan for 12 inches of space between the kiln and everything else. Make sure the space is clean from dust and debris.Clear a space for the box/pallet to live while you are unpacking the kiln. Chances are the freight company or even UPS/FedEx, etc. will place the pallet or box in your garage, but you will need to have a covered, clean and dry space ready so that you can take your time assembling things like your stand, etc. Some models come with stands assembled, and some do not.Get yourself a set of nut drivers and a multi-meter from the home improvement store. You’re going to need them if you’re ever going to do any maintenance on your kiln. You might even need the nut drivers to put together your stand.Make sure the space your planning to put the kiln is less than 6 feet from the receptacle. Most kilns only have a 6-foot cord, and the bigger the kiln, the fatter the cord, making it less likely to bend around corners, etc.Make sure you plan for a working surface. Somewhere near your kiln to store kiln wash, posts, extra shelves, gloves, tools etc. Make plans for someone to help you unpack the kiln. Only the smallest 120v table top kilns can be a “one man job.” If you lack the upper body strength to lift 40 pounds alone, prearrange some help. Do this BEFORE the kiln arrives so that you’ve set the stage to get going sooner rather than later.Have a plan for debris removal. What will you do with pallet? The box, the foam, the strapping, the plastic, etc. That packing material is coming, how will you get it gone??Pre-read the manuals and watch the controller videos on YouTube. Be familiar with your kiln and controller before it arrives. Maybe purchase some fun technique books to inspire your work!If you haven’t heard from us in 6 weeks, feel free to drop us an email and inquire as to what we know about your kiln. We typically check with the manufacturer at the three-week mark if we see your kiln has not shipped yet.  If there’s a problem, we’ll let you know.Great service is our #1 priority! We know you’re anxious to get your new kiln and get going, so we humbly ask, please be patient. We don’t build ‘em, and we have no control if a manufacturer gets behind due to mechanical problems at the factory, weather related issues, shipping delays, etc. We want what you want, your kiln in perfect working order, delivered in one piece, in a timely manner...And most importantly, a happy, happy customer!

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Applying kiln wash should be easy, right?
Bullseye Glass

Applying kiln wash should be easy, right?

We all know that kiln wash and shelf primer does not melt at high temperatures which enables it to form a protective barrier between kiln shelves and glaze or glass. But, did you know the secret to smooth and bubble free kiln wash is to warm the shelves prior to its application?

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