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Machine shops save time with a Paragon HT22D furnace at their disposal in their own shop. You will no longer send a die out for heat treating, wait for its return and then send it out again for additional heat treating.
The door of the Paragon HT22D swings open with one-handed operation. A counter-weight handle holds the door securely closed. The door has a vent hole, so you can see inside the furnace during firing. Metal covers seal the vent holes when not in use. (Always wear Paragon firing safety glasses when looking into a hot furnace.) The furnace is insulated with refractory firebrick. The elements are mounted in dropped, recessed grooves machined into the firebrick. Paragon invented this type of groove in 1952. This groove protects the element for long life and low maintenance. Elements are simple to replace because they’re exposed rather than embedded. You can thread new elements into place following clear instructions in the manual.
The firing chamber is protected by a steel case painted in high-temperature blue. A built-in stand lifts the firing chamber safely off your worktable, so no extra stand is needed. The door is mounted with a heavy-duty hinge for smooth opening. A micro-switch shuts off the power to the elements when the door is opened. We use high-temperature wire in the switch box for long life. A heat shield, mounted between the switch box and furnace, helps keep the switch box components cool even during extended operation. To further dissipate heat, the switch box is extra large and generously louvered.
During heat treating, scale forms on the surface of the steel. One way to eliminate most scaling is to wrap the steel in stainless steel foil, which Paragon sells. An easier way is to install the gas injection flow meter on your furnace. It is available as either an add-on kit, or you can order the furnace with the meter installed.
The meter regulates the flow of an inert gas, such as argon, inside the furnace. The gas displaces the oxygen to prevent most scaling.
| Model: | Paragon HT22D |
| Dimensions Inside: | 21" (width) x 21" (depth) x 13.25" (height) |
| Dimensions Outside: | 37.5" (width) x 30" (depth) x 23" (height) |
| Elements: | Side Element |
| Max Temp: | Fires to 2000° F |
| Voltage: | 240 volts |
| Amperage: | 30 amps |
| Watts: | 7200 watts |
| Receptacle: | 6-50R |
| Shipping Weight: | 348 lbs. (Freight) |
Why Upgrade from Mechanical Relays to Solid-State Relays?
Mechanical Relays, which come standard on most kilns have internal moving parts which over time wear out and need to be replaced. Kiln manufacturers recommend you replace your mechanical relays approximately every 2 years. Solid-state relays have no moving parts and last far longer than standard mechanical relays and offer far better temperature control during hold times. Since solid-state relays also have no moving parts to wear out, they NEVER need to be replaced. You will notice that solid-state relays are silent. The only sound you will hear is just the reassuring hum of the heating elements. So, this factory upgrade saves you potential downtime from having to wait for new relays to arrive, potential over-fires from relays sticking in the closed position, potential aggravation from having to learn how to remove and replace the mechanical relays yourself. We think this upgrade is well worth the cost and will save you time and aggravation over the life of your kiln.
Check out the heat-treating accessories you can use with this kiln!
https://kilnfrog.com/collections/heat-treating-accessories
Interested in Making Your Own Metal Parts and Pieces?
What is Lost Wax Casting? It is the process of making or carving a shape in wax, then making a mold of the wax shape, and then casting that shape into metal from the mold. The mold is a negative image of the wax. The wax is melted out of the mold through hollow channels called sprues. Lost wax burnout is the process of preparing a casting mold for the melted metal that will be poured into it.
Stainless Steel Wax Trays
If you want to do Lost Wax Casting, you'll need a stainless steel wax tray. Here's the one you'll need for this kiln; a Stainless Steel Wax Tray, 20″ X 20.″ This Stainless Steel Wax Tray system will fit well in your kiln and allow you to do lots of wax burnout.
Place your molds on the removable expanded metal top. The wax will drip from the molds into the tray underneath. Then remove the wax tray before the kiln gets hotter than 300°F / 148°C. Note: Burning wax inside a kiln can damage the firebricks. Check out this 20" x 20" Stainless Steel Wax Tray out to help you in your projects. Here's the link.
Want to learn more about Lost Wax Casting? Here is a link to a cool internet guide we found that you can use as a reference: Lost Wax Casting Tutorial and Guide
Kiln Accessories
Need other accessories for your kiln? Click the link here to explore more Kiln Accessories.
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