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The PERFECT kiln for bottle slumping
Fuse Glass

The PERFECT kiln for bottle slumping

Gail Stouffer

Glass bottle slumping is extremely popular because you don't need to buy expensive glass and it gives artists the opportunity to recycle wine and/or beer bottles. When thinking about buying a kiln for glass bottle slumping, it’s important to consider the size of the bottles and molds you are planning to use, before you buy it. Unfortunately, it’s not that easy as the long shape of glass bottles and bottle slumping molds make them hard to fit into many of the standard smaller, household current kilns. It’s like the Goldilocks syndrome… this one is too small, this one is too big but, this one is just right. So, with that mind, Paragon Industries accepted the challenge to create the perfect bottle slumping kiln.  They recognized that most people who want to slump bottles want a kiln big enough to efficiently slump multiple wine and/or beer bottles at the same time. And, most don't have a 240v electrical circuit available, so they need the kiln to run on regular 120v household current. With those specifications as their guidelines… the rectangular Paragon S1310 Trio was born!  And, is the only kiln specifically created for glass bottle slumping! Now that you have the perfect kiln, here are some tips to help you make your glass bottle slumping experience more successful: Remove labels. From washing soda to ammonia, there are many options when it comes to removing labels from bottles. Most involve hot water and soaking from a couple hours to overnight.  After the label has been removed, remember to wash the bottles thoroughly under cold water to remove any residue. Many people also use isopropyl alcohol to clean fingerprints as cleaning the glass is critical to your success! Keep a log. Bottles come in diverse shapes, sizes and glass properties. Thicker bottles will take longer to heat and slump. Different shaped bottles will slump differently and at different rates. Different glass may have different melting temperatures. We suggest keeping a log of your firing. You may see some patterns that will help you get more consistent results. Sample Bottle Slumping Firing Schedule Be prepared to adjust. It's uncommon that a generic firing schedule will get you the perfect results without some modification. And, there are a million factors that can impact the temperature… maybe you loaded your kiln with more bottles, so it will take longer to heat.  Or, like your oven, some kilns just run hot, while others run cold. Whatever the cause, you will need to adjust some parts of the firing schedule to get the best results from your kiln. Fusing bottles together. Glass compatibility, also referred to the coefficient of expansion or COE, is important to understand if you are going to be successful with glass bottle slumping. If you don’t use glass that has the same compatibility or COE, the stress will cause it to crack or break. Sometimes it happens immediately or sometimes is happens later... but, I can 100% guarantee that it will happen. Most bottles tend to be in the 82-86 COE range which is similar to float or window glass. However, since the COE of any given bottle glass is unknown, it is not recommended to fuse them with other bottles or fusible glass.

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Top 10 Platemaking Tips
Art Glass

Top 10 Platemaking Tips

Bullseye Glass Studio Tip: As many people are receiving their first kiln this holiday season, we thought it would be helpful to share a Tip Sheet on Platemaking that contains our favorite Top 10 platemaking tips. Plates and platters are popular projects for both advanced and beginning kilnworkers, and platemaking is a perfect way to learn kilnforming’s two most frequently used methods: fusing and slumping. The tips shown in this sheet are basic and they are the building blocks for more advanced kilnforming methods. Because the object is to make functional plates with smooth surfaces, these notes assume that the first firing will be to full fuse temperatures. On the final page of the tip sheet, Bullseye lists a basic fuse and slumping schedule. While many variables can impact a schedule, it's a great place to start! Check out some of our best-selling glass kilns: Jen-Ken AF3P 15/6 Paragon Xpress E-12T Olympic 126 Lite

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Feeling Like I'm on Grey's Anatomy... Kiln Surgery... STAT!
Evenheat Kilns

Feeling Like I'm on Grey's Anatomy... Kiln Surgery... STAT!

There's a sinking feeling that I get in my gut when one of my kilns behaves oddly. It's akin to the car making weird noises as you are driving down the highway. Thoughts of dread begin to fill your mind and you start to concoct scenarios of doom. Mainly, "ON NO, I HAVE TO OPEN THE CONTROLLER BOX!"     It's funny because I've owned a lot of kilns over the last 14 years and changed a lot of relays, transformers, thermocouples, etc., but still that feeling of dread comes over me as though it was my first time "opening the box." It's like a big mystery. What's in there? What's it going to look like? ...and the biggest question of all.... WILL I SCREW IT UP? You'd think that I'd approach this with confidence and bravado thinking, "I've done this a million times. I've got this!" But, sadly, NO!     Anyway, if you feel the same way too, know you are not alone. The inside of the "box" is intimidating. Although it's pretty simple once you know what all of the wires are for and how the electricity needs to move, it's still a little daunting. So here's my story of the week regarding my kiln surgery.   I have a 36" Profusion Fiber kiln. I love her, and her name is Jenny! (Yeah, I know I'm a weirdo.) I loaded some simple 2 layer plate tiles into the kiln for an easy full fuse and got a FTL error. The glass never got fired at all and the kiln only went to 600F. So why the FTL? (That's failure to cool, for those of you who don't know all the error codes.) Apparently, you get a FTL code after a FTH (failure to heat) code. Now that seems illogical, but that rant is for another blog. So my task was to figure out why the kiln wasn't heating. No heat = no fusing = no fun for me!   There are only a few reasons why a kiln won't heat; dead or stuck relay(s), broken or fried element, not enough current/volts getting to the kiln, etc. The thermocouple was telling me the correct temps, so we could rule that out easily. I'm not as religious about changing relays as I should be on this kiln. I changed them all out exactly 3 years ago. So, it clearly was time! Luckily, I'm not a hypocrite! I did have a stash of relays that was reserved for this event, so I was ready when the time came. (I might be lazy, but I'm not a hypocrite!) So I set aside yesterday afternoon for this planned outpatient kiln surgery!     I took out my drill with the 1/4" nut driver attachment, my phillips head bit, and my long nose pliers. I unplugged the kiln and set a small bowl next to my chair. The bowl is for all the screw, nuts, and parts that come off, and will need to go back onto the kiln. It just helps keep things in one place and makes sure things don't roll away and escape from you. (I learned this from experience of not doing the bowl thing and being on my hands and knee on the floor looking for a damn screw.) I pull up a comfy low chair and found a stool to rest the box on since It was still going to be attached to the kiln. NOW I AM READY FOR SURGERY! All I needed was the trippy Grey's Anatomy music and someone telling me, go for it! As you can tell from these pictures, there is A LOT going on in there. The kiln has 4 relays with 4 element connections, power jumps from one relay to the next, connections to the pilot lights, etc. There are 6 prongs on each of the 4 relays, and each prong has something attached to it. That's 24 connections to take off and reconnect correctly, and in the right order. That wouldn't be so bad except that this all has to be done in a tiny space. I'm not the largest lady in town, but I'm not small and delicate either. My hands are normal size, but in that box I felt like my hands were baseball mitts. Each relay is color coded to an element. So the red wires go to one relay, the whites, the blacks, and the blues, each to their own relay. That's really helpful so that you know you've got it all correct. Of course that escaped me the first time I did this, but you learn.  Each relay is held in place by 2 bolts, each with their corresponding nut. That's a challenge, removing the relay from its spot, then disconnecting all of the crimped connections, then attaching all the connections correctly to the new relay, and then bolting the new relay back in place securely. That's what you do, just four times, in a small space, bent over, with reading glasses on, while you struggle to hold the long nosed pliers that are wiggling the tightly crime connectors on and off. See.... it's simple... a breeze.. ARE YOU KIDDING ME?   The TRUTH is that none of this in mentally taxing. I didn't need special knowledge, JUST NERVE! I had to remember that this was just a giant toaster, and I am a resourceful girl!  Yes, I started out intimidated, but that soon gave way to a wave of confidence and accomplishment. My last step was to take a picture of the inside of the box and send it to the folks that built the kiln to assure I hadn't missed anything. They got back to me quickly and pointed out one mistake, which was easily fixed in 15 seconds.  The kiln companies are there to help, so utilize that help. NOW I AM READY TO GO!     HERE'S WHAT I LEARED, THAT YOU CAN LEARN FROM TOO...   Fear is the enemy, not the relays!   Have the right tools and get them together in one place.   Get a stash of relays so that you will be ready when the time comes.   Schedule a quiet, uninterrupted "appointment" time with yourself to do this task.   Go slowly and take a break if you need it.   DO NOT wait until the kiln doesn't fire, or do this the night before a show.   Ask for help from your kiln manufacturer.    Reward yourself for job well done!   Good luck! If I can do it, you can too!   Your Kiln Gal,   Gail   Some important kiln parts: RelaysAdhesive Electric Kiln Parts

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