|18" (width) x 18" (depth) x 13" (height)
|29" (width) x 34.5" (depth) x 29" (height)
|16" x 14" - NOT INCLUDED
|Side Element Only
|Fires to 1700° F
Anneal large glass figurines in the digital F-240 lamp working kiln. Raise the spring-loaded vertical-drop door to insert a glass figurine with a punty rod. Lower the door. The punty rods or mandrels will extend outside the firing chamber through the small punty rod doors. This allows even large glass pieces to anneal safely.
Punty rod doors retain the heat
Two 4” x 7 1/2” punty rod doors will give you plenty of room to work with. Because of a gap under the punty rod doors, you can usually close them all the way even when mandrels extend past the firing chamber. Two layers of woven gaskets under each door help to hold in the heat. Powerful rare-earth magnets hold the punty rod doors in the open and closed positions. To help retain heat, the ceramic fiber punty rod doors are two inches thick.
Slide-out mandrel holder
We have added an adjustable mandrel holder to the front of the kiln. Adjust it horizontally and vertically without tools. Position the heavy-duty welded mandrel holder from 1 1/4” to 12” from the front edge of the main floor. (A firebrick extension on the front of the kiln fits under the punty rod doors beyond the front edge of the kiln floor.) Then tighten the mandrel holder with the thumbscrews on each side of the kiln. The holder slides inside steel tubes mounted in the base of the kiln. The stainless steel mandrel rest, which includes 14 slots, can also be adjusted vertically.
Thicker firebricks in the F-240
The firebricks in the roof, walls, door, and bottom are 3” thick. This is 20% more insulation than the standard 2 1/2” firebricks in the walls and bottom of our earlier F-240 kilns. The extra insulation enables the Paragon F-240 kiln to maintain a temperature hold with greater ease. A firebrick ledge extends 3” past the punty rod doors as a handy working surface.
For your safety, the Paragon F-240 kiln is rigorously tested by TUV to meet UL and CSA standards. TUV is Germany’s leading testing lab. We can make the F-240 for any electrical system in the world. The F-240 includes safety on/off switch for your convenience. Electrical components stay cool in a slotted base. No extra stand is needed for your kiln.
Solid State Relays
The F240 has solid-state relays that are mounted to aluminum heat sinks. SSR's last far longer than standard mechanical relays and offer better temperature control during holds. SSR's also have no moving parts to wear out. You will also notice is that SSR's are silent. The only sound you will hear just the reassuring hum of the heating elements.
Interested in Making Your Own Metal Parts and Pieces?
What is Lost Wax Casting? It is the process of making or carving a shape in wax, then making a mold of the wax shape, and then casting that shape into metal from the mold. The mold is a negative image of the wax. The wax is melted out of the mold through hollow channels called sprues. Lost wax burnout is the process of preparing a casting mold for the melted metal that will be poured into it.
Stainless Steel Wax Trays
If you want to do Lost Wax Casting, you'll need a stainless steel wax tray. Here's the one you'll need for this kiln; a Stainless Steel Wax Tray and Grate, 17″ X 17.″ This Stainless Steel Wax Tray and Grate system will fit well in your kiln and allow you to do lots of wax burnout.
Place your molds on the removable expanded metal top. The wax will drip from the molds into the tray underneath. Then remove the wax tray before the kiln gets hotter than 300°F / 148°C. Note: Burning wax inside a kiln can damage the firebricks. Check out this 17" x 17" Stainless Steel Wax Tray and Grate out to help you in your projects. Here's the link.
Want to learn more about Lost Wax Casting? Here is a link to a cool internet guide we found that you can use as a reference: Lost Wax Casting Tutorial and Guide
Need other accessories for your kiln? Click the link here to explore more Kiln Accessories.