FrogBlog
Discoloration on kilns with fiber
Fiber kilns are constructed of rigidized fiber to keep the walls nice and stiff. Some kiln companies pre-fire their fiber at the factory to a satisfactory temperature so that any excess rigidizer burns away while others do not. As you can never be 100% positive that all of the excess rigidizer is gone, a good fiber burnout is usually necessary. With that said, before you put anything in the kiln, fire your new fiber kilns up to 1500°F and hold for one hour. Make sure to do this in a well-ventilated area, like an open garage, near an open window or your back porch because as the heat increases, the excess rigidizer may begin to steam, and well, yes even get a bit stinky. We get a lot of calls about this but, don't panic as it is totally normal. As the process continues, the nice white fiber board may even begin to turn brown and discolor. But, once the temp reaches 1500°F the toasty looking area should return to pristine white. If there is a lot of rigidzer, the area may remain slightly discolored or seem stained. Again, don't worry, as this will not effect the firing of the kiln, or later, the glass inside. Discoloration happens a lot when you use fiber papers like Thinfire or Papyrus. It’s just happening inside the kiln, so you don’t see it. If you vent your kiln while using these papers, the burnout process can discolor the edges of your kiln lid. Again, this just isn’t a real problem, just a cosmetic blemish. Think of this as smile lines from the joys of using your kiln! Learn more about fiber vs. brick kilns...
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Applying kiln wash should be easy, right?
We all know that kiln wash and shelf primer does not melt at high temperatures which enables it to form a protective barrier between kiln shelves and glaze or glass. But, did you know the secret to smooth and bubble free kiln wash is to warm the shelves prior to its application?
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Glass Glossary and more...
This glossary is designed to assist you in finding and understanding all of the various terms associated with glass, ceramics, metal, clay, enameling, and more! We hope you will find this a useful resource as we have emptied our brains and have nothing left to share with you! A-B | C | D-E | F | G | H-I-J | K-L | M-N | O | P-Q | R | S | T | U-V-W-X-Y-Z
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PREPARE YOUR LOVED ONE (YOUR KILN) FROM STORM RELATED DAMAGE!
Wanted to share this great tip from our friends @ Jen-Ken Kilns: It's that time of year again, it's storm season in various parts of the country. During this time, we start getting "those" calls... "My kiln was fine and now it wont come on!" "I was firing, and all of the sudden I smelled something electrical burning!" "My display just flickers and beeps!" These are just a few of the typical issues. Over the years, we've seen the pattern and we've found the one common thread. It's storm season. We take so many calls like this a year, and every time we trace the symptoms back to one thing: LIGHTNING! When lightning strikes nearby, it sends a very HIGH VOLTAGE SURGE throughout the entire electrical system in your house. Unfortunately, you just can't plug your kiln into a surge protector to prevent the surge from zapping your kiln. The circuit board is the most expensive part on your entire kiln, and a good power surge will knock it out faster than anything else! It can also cause other problems, like burning out relays, and damaging your transformer. We know you love your kiln, and we want you to protect your baby! SO WHAT CAN YOU DO... If you have a digital kiln, PLEASE UNPLUG IT when it's not in use. Just like your computer or other expensive electronics, your kiln needs protection especially during storm season. Also, never fire a kiln when lightning is nearby. If your kiln is firing and a storm comes up, end your program as soon as you can and unplug the kiln. Don't just hope for the best! Don't let your kiln be the victim of mother nature! If need us, as always we're here to help. All the Best and Happy Firing, Jenn The Jen-Ken Tech Girl Explore some of our favorite Jen Ken kilns: Jen-Ken - AF3P Vitri Barrel Vitrigraph Jen-Ken - AFG ProFusion Fiber 26 Jen-Ken - AF3P 15/6
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What I'm Supposed to Do Before Firing My Kiln..... and other things I'm probably forgetting to do!
Most of us are so excited about what we're putting into our kilns, that we forget we need stop and inspect the kiln carefully prior to each firing. Caring for you kiln is an easy task that, if you pay attention to the small things, can save you down time and lots of maintenance dollars. Doing these simple steps every time can help your kiln last a really, really, really long time! Before EVERY firing... Look. Take a gander inside of your kiln and make sure nothing has taken up residence. You think we’re kidding, but sometimes, especially if your kiln lives in your garage or basement, insects or even a critter could have taken up temporary quarters if you left the top open. If you have house pets and the kiln is in an area that your pets can access, make sure that none of your little friends have left you a liquid present near the kiln. Moisture and electricity don’t mix, and really smell up the joint! Avoid installing kilns in a damp area. This could cause corrosion on the plug. Even if there is no critter present, sometimes droppings around your kiln can be a telltale sign you have guests in the vicinity. Check for anything out of the ordinary. Vacuum. Turn off the power switch! Then, vacuum all brick areas on the inside of your kiln! Make sure there is no loose fiber paper, blanket or other refractory material that is unneeded in the kiln. Extra burnout of unnecessary fiber smells crummy and may contribute to devitrification. This includes the inside of the lid, around your elements on the side, and the bottom. Your vacuum should have a HEPA filter, to protect you from inhaling dust. Ideally you would use a shop VAC with a separately purchased HEPA filter. Make sure you are using a soft brush attachment. You are vacuuming because you must remove all kiln brick dust, sand, and residue that could settle into your glass during the firing. Clean. Make sure the area is really clean - remove all flammable or combustible materials such as curtains, plastics, rags, paper, packing materials, etc. from the area surrounding the kiln. Inspect. Make sure all the coils/elements are in their designated place and tuck everything in where it belongs. Make sure the elements and their respective channels have no glass, glazes, or metal fragments, crustings, etc. Push all loose element pins back into place. Inspect your thermocouple for any signs of damage and replace immediately if needed. Tighten screws in the lid band, if necessary. Check for cracks. Check your shelf for cracks before firing. This may prevent the possible disappointment of the shelf breaking mid-firing. Sand any rough spots on the bottom or shelves and recoat with kiln wash. It is not necessary to kiln wash between each firing but a sufficient coating should be maintained. Power Up! Turn the power switch back on and make sure your kiln registers an appropriate room temperature for the inside of the kiln. Regular MONTHLY maintenance check up… Do a Lid Check Up! During every firing the kiln lid expands and contracts. All this action will make it necessary to tighten the lid band occasionally. Carefully, using the correct tool, tighten the band, being mindful not to strip threads. Most kiln lids are manufactured with a protective coating on the "hot side" or inside. This coating was applied to optimize the heat insulation of the lid, as well as to prevent brick dust from falling into the kiln. Of course this cannot be completely prevented. Because of all of this expansion and contraction over the years, cracks may appear in the lid. Most cracks are cosmetic in nature and will have no impact on your firings. Sometimes, a small crack can become a problem that can be repaired with kiln cement. If a lid crack is creating a structural problem, then it’s time to call in the kiln repair person, or call the manufacturer. Structural problems will be handled in short order by most manufacturers during the warranty period. If you are in the warranty period, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR THIS without calling the manufacturer, as this could void your warranty. Do a Body Check Up! The only things inside of your kiln should be your elements, pins, brick, kiln furniture/posts and kiln washed shelves. Turn off the power to the kiln and remove anything else (glaze, slip, clay, glass, silica sand) from the sidewalls before firing. We are doing this for the same reasons we vacuum the lid. Leaving this material in the kiln will damage the sidewalls and possibly the heating elements. Remove the material with a small screwdriver or knife. Be careful not to gauge the brick. It's possible that small pieces of brick will break free from the sidewall. Most cracks are cosmetic in nature and will have no impact on your firings. On occasion, a small crack can become a problem that can be repaired with kiln cement. Be as neat as possible and be mindful not to get cement on the heating elements, as this could destroy the element. If a sidewall crack is creating a structural problem, then it’s time to call in the kiln repair person, or call the manufacturer. Structural problems will be handled in short order by most manufacturers during the warranty period. If you are in the warranty period, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR THIS without calling the manufacturer, as this could void your warranty. Visually Inspect The Elements! Rusty, bulging, and thinning or thickened areas of your elements mean wear is happening. Elements don’t last forever, so expect to change your elements at some point during the life of your kiln. Element wear is based on the number of firings you do, and the environment or climate where the kiln resides. Just like tires on a car, mileage equals wear. In a kiln, the hours firing are equivalent to miles. The more hours you fire, the wear you’ll see on your elements. The thicker the gage of the element coil wire the more resilient the element will be. Keep in mind that each manufacturer has taken great care to size the element coils for the amount of amperage that they will carry to get the job done well. If you find it necessary to change out your elements, make sure you speak to the manufacturer to determine the appropriate element size for your kiln. Please refer to your operator’s manual for the discussion and photo's of "Element Replacement". Perform an Electrical Check Up! Perform an Electrical Check Up! Periodically inspect the power cable, receptacle, and plug for any signs of discoloration or heat. Make sure all connections in the receptacle and plug are tight. Check plug regularly for corrosion or dark spots. If corrosion or discoloration occurs, replace the plug and receptacle. Touch the plug and receptacle regularly to make sure it is not hot. If it does feel hot, check for loose connections and corrosion. Do not continue firing until the problem is fixed. Replacing the cord set or the receptacle may be necessary. If an electrical problem occurs and it becomes necessary replace any part of the plug assembly, then it’s time to call in the kiln repair person, or call the manufacturer. Electrical problems will be handled in short order by most manufacturers during the warranty period. If you are in the warranty period, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPAIR THIS without calling the manufacturer, as this could void your warranty. ***Don't take any of these check up steps for granted!*** The long life and resale value of your kiln depend on these steps! Now that I've reminded you....my work here is done! Go fuse, fire, slump, rake, drape, and drip to your hearts content! Your Kiln Gal, Gail... Special thanks to our friends at Paragon and Jen-Ken Kilns for the use of their pix!
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What does it REALLY cost to run my kiln?
Sometimes we would rather put our heads in the sand then face the reality of what it costs to run our kiln. Don't worry! Firing your kiln costs less than you’d imagine. Even though a kiln draws electricity, it does not draw it continually, so during a typical glass firing, a kiln's elements are drawing power only a fraction of the time. Most digital controllers allow you to enter your cost per kilowatt hour for electricity and they will report back the cost of the firing. Here’s one formula for calculating the cost of firing your kiln: 1 = Amps2 = Volts3 = Estimated Firing time in hours time x .75 (kiln is only on full power intermittently)4 = Cost per kilowatt hr from your electric bill 1 x 2 x 3 x 4 = Firing Cost 1,000 A longer firing will increase the energy cost, it will not be a large increase because the kiln will not be on full power any longer and the .75 factor in “3” of the formula would be lower. The formula assumes a normal, even increase per hour. Here’s another way to calculate electric usage and costs: Step 1: Determine the wattage of the kiln (Volts x Amps = Watts... ex. 120 volts x 15 Amps = 1800 Watts) Step 2: Multiply wattage by 1000 (ex. 1800 Watts / 1000 = 1.8 KW) Step 3: Multiply kilowatts (KW) by KW cost on your energy bill (ex. 1.8 KW x $0.15 = $0.27 per KWH for each hour the kiln is on high and not cycling on and off) Step 4: Multiply the answer you received above by .75 (ex. $.27 x .75 = $.20 per hour to run the kiln) We assume the kiln is cycling on and off during this firing so the actual amount of time the kiln is running a program is about 66% to 75% on. This is not much for a 120v small kiln, but can add up over a month of firing a 240v 45 amp kiln. So.... step one is to go get your electric bill and find out what you pay per Kilowatt Hour (KWH). Then, you can really know what it costs to run your kiln. So... step two....include those costs in your cost of goods when you are selling your beautiful glass work! Finally.... step three...make a profit and have some fun! Your kiln gal - Gail Want to save on electricity bill? Here are some of our top 120V kilns: Paragon Kiln - Caldera Digital Jen-Ken - AF3P Vitri Barrel Vitrigraph Evenheat Studio Pro 17 Oympic Doll-E/Test-E Hot Shot Oven and Kiln HS16 Pro Clamshell
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The Bad Back Syndrome and the Clamshell Kiln...
I used to experience back fatigue every time I loaded my kiln. It was a real pain in the.... neck! Last year I purchased a large 26" Clamshell kiln and the back discomfort went away. I now wish my other two kilns were clammys too! If you are thinking about a new kiln, take a moment to think about the following information... If you have a challenge like I do with bending over, i.e. the dreaded "bad back" then a clamshell kiln might be just the thing for you. A clamshell kiln is configured to have the firing chamber (the top and sides of the kiln) lift off of the base on a hinge. The set up allows the user direct, easy access to the kiln shelf. The key to kiln loading back relief is the height of the base of the clamshell kiln shelf. So what does this really mean? When you set up the kiln, make sure the base of the clamshell kiln is above your waist and below the height of your chest. Think about where you will place the clamshell kiln and whether you'll need to elevate the unit on a steel stand on the floor or on a table. Because, like me, you are responsible for your own kiln loading fatigue destiny. With that said, just about every kiln company has a clamshell model in a small, medium, and large size. The large size clamshell units typically have their own steel stands included. That's great, but we're not all the same size. I'm tall with long legs, so I looked for a kiln with an extra tall stand. You can also place the kiln on a platform to raise the base higher. The medium and small clamshell units have feet that act as stands. You can elevate these units by constructing a platform on top of your table table top. What ever you do, make sure the unit is level front to back and side to side. Some units even have leveling feet that adjust to help with this process. Doesn't this look painful to load? Here are a few of my favorites: Paragon CS 19-S Olympic Square 186GFETLC Evenheat Studio Pro 17 Remember, SAFETY FIRST! Whatever modification you need to elevate your kiln to the perfect comfortable loading height, make sure it's sturdy and heat proof. Most of the chain hardware "home centers" carry cement board, brand names include "Hardy Backer" and "Duraboard". Use these to protect surfaces that are not heatproof. Be smart! A hot kiln = a happy life! #olympickilns #pargonkilns #jenkenkilns #evenheatkilns #clamshellkilns Your Kiln Gal - Gail
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