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My first big kiln! What should I be looking for?
240 volt kiln

My first big kiln! What should I be looking for?

Gail Stouffer

I remember this like it was yesterday. I had been fusing for a while and I was ready to go to my first "big girl" 240 volt kiln. The truth is I really did not know what I was supposed to be looking for in a bigger kiln. I just knew I wanted more space and I had the money in my pocket ready to go. This was about 14 years ago, and I'm sure there were answers out there, but I didn't really know who to trust and what their motives might be. Here's my story... (without any bias to manufacturers). My first larger kiln was a 24"octagon with a 21" round shelf.  I was so excited at the time that I didn't realize that a 21" round shelf meant that a only a 15" inch square would fit on the shelf. I knew that was not going to be enough shelf space for me so the problem was easily fixed a year later when I sold that kiln and purchased an oval. So, now I had an oval, which I loved by the way, but that one had a two piece shelf, making it harder to do larger pieces without the dreaded line. The full shelves were a $250 upgrade which seemed like a lot of money at the time. However, I really should have upgraded and not cheaped-out as it would have saved me alot of hassle. Lesson learned. About two years later, I then bought a new square one. This one had a 24" shelf and gave me a lot of utility. But again, I'd discovered there were issues I hadn't thought about. That kiln was very low to the ground and killed my back to load. Also, the lid was a bear to open and close from the front because again I didn't think I needed the lid lifter... so I'd have to stand on the side to open it. That added torque to the lid and a crack soon appeared. Again, I was being frugal and should have upgraded. After the lid was replaced, I sold that one too and continued my quest. By now you can see that the addiction was taking hold. My husband and my business partner may have been colluding behind my back to check me into the nearest 12-step kiln addiction program. But I didn't care. Within a few years I'd added a fiber kiln to the mix. My confession is that I've owned over 25 kilns in 15 years. It's given me a great deal of experience about what kilns work for what projects. It's also allowed me to have the experience to helping others determine what they need and what might not be a good fit. Let's face it, everyone's needs are different and dictated by the kind of art work they want to do.  NO ONE KILN IS PERFECT FOR EVERY JOB, EVERY TIME, EVERY ARTIST! Next, I bought my first clamshell. I really liked that one but the shelf was only 20" square. Too small for my taste. More bad decisions, you'd think I would have learned!With all of that said... here's my checklist of what to think about when purchasing your first larger kiln. I wish someone would have shared this with me about 20 kilns ago. Think about what kind of work you might want to do in the future. Your choice might work for today's needs, but will it look for tomorrows needs? Think about your body. This might sound silly to you, but if you intend to use your new kiln a lot, you'd better be comfortable loading it, scraping the shelves, vacuuming it and lifting the lid. Whether the kiln loads from the top or the front changes how much bending and lid-lifting that involves. You will absolutely use the kiln LESS if you are not comfortable. Be smart, get the lid lifter, or the full shelf, or the clamshell, or the taller stand, even if it costs more. It will be worth it in long-term utility. Be honest with yourself. Will you change the relays every year or two without someone standing over you to do it? If not, then think about getting mercury relays, which never need to be changed. Yes, they're an upgrade, but in 14 years and over 25 kilns I've had a few relay failures. Two of my failure happened with full kiln loads and the relays stuck in the "on" position. It does happen and it's no one's fault. It's just like a blown out tire, it just happens. Think about how lazy or energetic you are. No one is judging you here! I can be lazy and  I'll admit it. How much do you love to scrape shelves and vacuum? I don't love it, so I avoid it. The way to fix this problem and make it less irritating is to actually purchase extra shelves with your kiln. It's actually much less expensive and far healthier to use kiln wash than it is to use fiber paper. The more shelves you can rotate, the less scraping and coating it will feel like you are doing. Finally, really think about getting what you want. I cheaped-out on several upgrade items that would have made me happier with my kiln long term. Even if it hurts a little, get what you need so that you don't have regrets. Of course there's a disclaimer! I am part of the kiln establishment now, selling kilns to other artists. But here's my truth, I represent four different kiln companies and doing this allows me to better represent my artist clients and get them the kilns they need, configured the way they need them. I'm not sure if I should be proud or ashamed of the number of kilns I have owned from each of the companies I represent. I'm joking a little saying that, but owning kilns from each manufacturer has made me more than just familiar with how those kilns work, it's made me educated about how each company builds their kilns, and where each company shines. So here's the recap of what to consider: Think long-term about your artwork needs! Think long-term about your physical needs and how they might change! Think long-term about your nature and how you want to spend time! Think long-term about your budget and what you'll really need to make you happy on #1-2-3! I love teaching my students and talking to artists about their needs everyday!  I love helping fellow artists get what they need to do their best work! Thanks for letting me do what I love!  Your kiln gal, Gail Explore some of our best-selling large or x-large kilns: Olympic Kiln - MAS1823HE Paragon Kiln - CS-19S Jen-Ken Kiln - AFG JK2 27-11

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The Power of A Small Multi-Use Kiln
Buy Kiln

The Power of A Small Multi-Use Kiln

I love my big, very capable kilns, but so many times they just are not the right solution for my smaller projects. Having a smaller multi-use kiln for making jewelry, firing metal clays, making drawer pulls or glass bracelets, small ceramic projects, pulling vitrigraph stringer, bead annealing, and enameling is just a must in my studio. I'd be lost without my little wonder of a kiln! Here are some kilns that I really like as they do A LOT for the money... It's definitely hard to choose which one is best. It really just depends on what smaller projects you like to do and how much flexibility you need. The Evenheat Copper Kiln I love this kiln because of its front loading capability. It makes for easy access and loading. It allows you to do all of the above except vitrigraph and bead annealing. The really nice thing is that this kiln pulls less watts then most other kilns, while still making the temps we need. If you have power challenges in your studio, this kiln plugs into any household 120V receptacle, so you'll have an easy time getting the "juice" you need. The Copper excels at ease of use. It is built entirely of firebrick to offer the metal clay artist the opportunity to explore materials in the higher temperature ranges. Many clays require temperatures up to 2200F and the Copper has the capability to get you there. The Copper also finds use in china and porcelain painting, ceramics, and glass. The Copper is stock equipped with our easy to use Set-Pro control with preset metal clays programs as well as allowing for custom programming. The Copper sits comfortably on table tops and includes a stand. The Olympic HB86E This kiln is a rocket, because it heats very quickly! The reason this kiln is special is because it's super powered, going really fast up to temp and having the ability to hold that temp for long periods. That is especially important when pulling vitrigraph stringer. This nifty little kiln is truly multipurpose! We use it to fuse, anneal beads, fire Metal Clay, as a vitrograph, and to make bracelets. You can even fire small ceramics. The top and bottom are removable for the ultimate in versatility. This little wonder does it all! It is important to note, that when the bead collar or blank collar are added, the maximum temperature on the HB86E reduces to 2000°F. If you are a fan of Vitrigraphs and want to have your own set up, but don't want to deal with ladders or a permanent shelf, Here's a very cool solution that goes perfectly with an Olympic Kiln HB86E!! Olympic Vitrigraph Stand   The Paragon Caldera Digital  This is one of Paragon's best sellers because it literally can do anything! It's used in a lot of studios as a dedicated vitrigraph kiln because it fires fast and stays there! You can order extra collars for bead annealing, enameling, or just depth! You can also order extra bottoms too! This kiln is a sold workshorse that has a great reputation. You can make jewelry from the amazing silver, bronze, and copper clay, fire ceramics, porcelain, or stoneware jewelry. When you are ready to try something new, fire china, decals, try enameling, and glass in Paragon’s digital Caldera kiln. Glass compatibility and glaze color tests are fast and easy. The Caldera fires rapidly to 2350°F/1287°C. What will you do with your multi-use small kiln? Your Kiln Gal, Gail  

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Inside of a Top Loading Kiln
Clamshell kilns

The Bad Back Syndrome and the Clamshell Kiln...

I used to experience back fatigue every time I loaded my kiln. It was a real pain in the.... neck! Last year I purchased a large 26" Clamshell kiln and the back discomfort went away. I now wish my other two kilns were clammys too! If you are thinking about a new kiln, take a moment to think about the following information... If you have a challenge like I do with bending over, i.e. the dreaded "bad back" then a clamshell kiln might be just the thing for you. A clamshell kiln is configured to have the firing chamber (the top and sides of the kiln) lift off of the base on a hinge. The set up allows the user direct, easy access to the kiln shelf. The key to kiln loading back relief is the height of the base of the clamshell kiln shelf. So what does this really mean? When you set up the kiln, make sure the base of the clamshell kiln is above your waist and below the height of your chest. Think about where you will place the clamshell kiln and whether you'll need to elevate the unit on a steel stand on the floor or on a table.  Because, like me, you are responsible for your own kiln loading fatigue destiny. With that said, just about every kiln company has a clamshell model in a small, medium, and large size. The large size clamshell units typically have their own steel stands included. That's great, but we're not all the same size. I'm tall with long legs, so I looked for a kiln with an extra tall stand. You can also place the kiln on a platform to raise the base higher. The medium and small clamshell units have feet that act as stands. You can elevate these units by constructing a platform on top of your table table top. What ever you do, make sure the unit is level front to back and side to side. Some units even have leveling feet that adjust to help with this process. Doesn't this look painful to load? Here are a few of my favorites: Paragon CS 19-S Olympic Square 186GFETLC Evenheat Studio Pro 17 Remember, SAFETY FIRST! Whatever modification you need to elevate your kiln to the perfect comfortable loading height, make sure it's sturdy and heat proof. Most of the chain hardware "home centers" carry cement board, brand names include "Hardy Backer" and "Duraboard". Use these to protect surfaces that are not heatproof. Be smart! A hot kiln = a happy life! #olympickilns #pargonkilns #jenkenkilns #evenheatkilns #clamshellkilns Your Kiln Gal - Gail

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